When talking about using a hammer & chisel, something that other posters have probably taken for granted but not spelt out is that the mortar holding bricks together is quite a bit softer than the bricks. So you use a club hammer and a cold chisel (or a bolster) and break the mortar not the bricks.
I recently found (yet another) load of bricks buried in my garden. Most were single bricks, or broken bricks, but there were two or three larger sections. They were two or three bricks per layer and three or four layers deep. I used a club hammer and cold chisel and broke each section up in minute or two.
When doing that you must wear eye-protection as chips will come off.
You can get capsules of concentrated glyphosate that you place and then hammer into pre-drilled holes and I believe these work. One of my neighbours has treated some holly / laurel stumps with this and they have not re-sprouted. Normally glyphosate is only taken up by the leaves and translocated throughout the plant, including the roots. In this method however I think the glyphosate has lots of contact with the wood and dissolves in the remaining sap and so spreads, thus it needs to be done soon after the tree is cut down.
However, killing a tree does not mean you can easily pull it up any time soon as the roots are still there. I cut down and killed some ash trees that were c. 6" in diameter and it was c. 7 years before all the roots had rotted away and I could just take the stumps away. Obviously I could have dug them out sooner but it still would have been years not months.
I recently found (yet another) load of bricks buried in my garden. Most were single bricks, or broken bricks, but there were two or three larger sections. They were two or three bricks per layer and three or four layers deep. I used a club hammer and cold chisel and broke each section up in minute or two.
When doing that you must wear eye-protection as chips will come off.
You can get capsules of concentrated glyphosate that you place and then hammer into pre-drilled holes and I believe these work. One of my neighbours has treated some holly / laurel stumps with this and they have not re-sprouted. Normally glyphosate is only taken up by the leaves and translocated throughout the plant, including the roots. In this method however I think the glyphosate has lots of contact with the wood and dissolves in the remaining sap and so spreads, thus it needs to be done soon after the tree is cut down.
However, killing a tree does not mean you can easily pull it up any time soon as the roots are still there. I cut down and killed some ash trees that were c. 6" in diameter and it was c. 7 years before all the roots had rotted away and I could just take the stumps away. Obviously I could have dug them out sooner but it still would have been years not months.
