bi fold patio doors support...?
- Thread starter nickffc
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...and bi-fold doors are top hung which means you have to drill into the lintel. Off the shelf lintels are not desinged to be drilled into.
Lets get a few things right.
Firstly a Catnic CXL or IG L6 are not your standard lintels.. They are a 203x133x30kg universal steel beam with a 10mm plate welded the full width of the bottom flange giving a total overall width of 290mm and a SWL of (85KN) 5.1/19.1.
We are not SE, but if either of the above lintels with a 200mm end bearing plus a minimal amount of weight from bifold doors (come back to that in a jiffy) are not sufficient to take 30 course of arched brickwork above, then we will gladly eat your leotards for you Fred.
Every time we have emailed Catnic or IG they have always been most helpful and have provided calculations when requested.
Many thanks for your post woody confirming what we are about to write
Bifold patio doors, folding sliding doors, call them what you like are now designed so that the running rail at the sill, transfers the weight of the sashes safely to the floor. As a result, safe functioning is provided, independent from the building construction at the head. The top rail acts as a guide rail. The weight of the sashes is distributed from the side doors fixed to the jambs via the hinges between the doors and the bottom dual steel rollers.
With regard fixing the top rail to UB, there are more ways than one to skin a cat. That is another story Joe Mar
Regards oldun
Firstly a Catnic CXL or IG L6 are not your standard lintels.. They are a 203x133x30kg universal steel beam with a 10mm plate welded the full width of the bottom flange giving a total overall width of 290mm and a SWL of (85KN) 5.1/19.1.
We are not SE, but if either of the above lintels with a 200mm end bearing plus a minimal amount of weight from bifold doors (come back to that in a jiffy) are not sufficient to take 30 course of arched brickwork above, then we will gladly eat your leotards for you Fred.
Every time we have emailed Catnic or IG they have always been most helpful and have provided calculations when requested.
Many thanks for your post woody confirming what we are about to write
Bifold patio doors, folding sliding doors, call them what you like are now designed so that the running rail at the sill, transfers the weight of the sashes safely to the floor. As a result, safe functioning is provided, independent from the building construction at the head. The top rail acts as a guide rail. The weight of the sashes is distributed from the side doors fixed to the jambs via the hinges between the doors and the bottom dual steel rollers.
With regard fixing the top rail to UB, there are more ways than one to skin a cat. That is another story Joe Mar
Regards oldun
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I hear leotards taste good with a dollop of ice cream!
blimy....what have i started..... i don't even like leotards.... i find they ride up to high....!!!
anyway most helpful replys from all...thanks very much
i do have a related question regarding the interior of the room that will eventually have these doors fitted....
At the moment the area is split into two rooms with a wooden stud partition wall clad in plasterboard, this wall will be removed to make approximately a 25'x25' lounge.... the roof is of truss construction and i am presuming that taking the stud wall out will have no effect on the strength of the truss/ceiling....?
i have been up in loft to see how the truss and rooms were constructed and can clearly see that the plasterboard ceilings were installed before the stud wall was erected indicating to me that it would be OK just to remove the stud wall....or am i talking leotards.....?
from reading more stuff on the net i believe i need to work out the roof angle and the size of timbers used to make the truss to calculate if the truss is capable of supporting the roof and ceiling at that span....
Nick
anyway most helpful replys from all...thanks very much
i do have a related question regarding the interior of the room that will eventually have these doors fitted....
At the moment the area is split into two rooms with a wooden stud partition wall clad in plasterboard, this wall will be removed to make approximately a 25'x25' lounge.... the roof is of truss construction and i am presuming that taking the stud wall out will have no effect on the strength of the truss/ceiling....?
i have been up in loft to see how the truss and rooms were constructed and can clearly see that the plasterboard ceilings were installed before the stud wall was erected indicating to me that it would be OK just to remove the stud wall....or am i talking leotards.....?
from reading more stuff on the net i believe i need to work out the roof angle and the size of timbers used to make the truss to calculate if the truss is capable of supporting the roof and ceiling at that span....
Nick
I hear leotards taste good with a dollop of ice cream!
It wont have happened without pictures
It was a little dry, but the ice cream helped!
sliding doors are bottom hunged agreed but bi-fold doors are top hung. bi-fold doors are a lot heavier than sliding. being top hung makes them a lot easier/smoother to open/close.
i've had 2 installed - a 12 and 6 ft.
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I have this exact situation, and I have been looking at this diagram and wondering how this buildup prevents condensation on the beam shelf? The steel is both outside and inside the thermal envelope and there's no insulation either side, and the shelf is thick enough to conduct a high level of heat. Since in our case it's in the kitchen, there's likely to be high humidity.Nobody's being funny, its a UB with a shelf angle, you cannot buy them off the shelf, any engineer will know what you are talking about.
How should the insulation be to prevent that problem?
PS sorry for the old bump, but I know the original people from this thread are around and hopefully remember the context.
And charge you a lot more than the amount of a UC with a plate welded onto it as was my experience anyway
maybe not othersShop around too, my local steel supplier (1 mile away) quoted a couple of hundred £'s more than a company 20 miles away! Including delivery.
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Thanks for the help Steve, that poses the question of how to attach the window straps, would they be OK on the "cold side". Also the joists have to be supported by the beam and it's a warm roof so they would be touching the cold beam. Would there be a problem with condensation getting through to the beam and making everything rot?
Must depend on the system in use, as my smarts visofold 1000 definitely run on a bottom rail (the wheels are oriented so they rotate in the vertical plane) with the top runners providing lateral support to stop the windows falling out via rotation when opened (wheels run in horizontal plane)
If you look at http://www.foldingdoors2u.co.uk/aluminium-bifold-doors/technical-details.htm you can see two pics- "new fully enclosed rollers" and "roller underside view" that highlight this.. those are the bottom rollers that support the weight of the door
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