Biasi M90F 24S hot water problems.. (FIXED)

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Remove DV motor.

Run DHW and feel temperatures of flow and return to the plate HE.

Then close the CH isolation valve at the left under the boiler.

Tell me.

Tony
 
OK, I have the DV valve in bits. I decided to overhaul it because it was weeping round one of the pins.

Cleaning all the parts in a tray and I have found a little rubber O Ring. It's about 8mm OD and 3.5mm ID. I can't find it on any of the drawings for the DV valve and isn't supplied on any of the parts that came with the service kit.

Any ideas where this is from? Unfortunately, I didn't get to see which chamber it came from. Could this be some random part that has been floating around in the system or boiler and has caused some sort of blockage?
 
Quite likely, but not to cause a blockage but a leakage through a route on the diverter valve and thus cause problems.

I cannot think of any water component using that size in that boiler but it could have come from a previous boiler model.

Tony
 
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The previous boiler was so old, it was probably made before O Rings were invented!

Anyway, DV vale re-assembled and I'll put it back in the boiler today/tomorrow along with the new heat exchanger and report back what happens..
 
OK, well the boiler is now working fine! It was either the heat exchanger, crud in the DV valve or that little rubber washer..thanks to all who helped - I owe you all a few beers if you are down this way.

However, I have uncovered another potential small issue. Sometimes the pin on the diaphragm valve wasn't popping out quite far enough to actuate the switch. The pin is attached to a plastic disc, the whole thing looking like a mushroom. A squirt of WD40 has resolved it.

The chrome plating is worn towards the middle of the shaft and I think that this was causing the pin to stick as it's potentially a less 'slippery' surface than the chrome plating.

Does anyone know where I can buy the complete 'mushroom' as a separate part? Whilst the boiler is currently working I don't want to come back to it in six months time so want to make sure everything is 'right' before putting my tools away.
 
I assume you mean the pump proving switch.

The pin is stainless steel. It would never normally corrode.

But it is prone to a build up of dirt. That will cause it to stick and will destroy the rubber seal inside the gland.

Needs to be removed and cleaned with wire wool, dried and lubricated with silicone grease.

Tony
 
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O rings should be greased with silicone grease, not wd40 . Part you describe sounds like the diaphragm, commonly available. Your supplier will need boiler model and serial number and gc. Number.
 
Yes, pump proving pin.

Certainly looks like worn plating; the unworn bits look a lot shinier than stainless steel, the worn part is a different colour entirely. Anyone know if Biasi substituted chrom plated pins on their boilers at any point? I suppose that's a question for Biasi themselves..

Just checked and the spray isn't WD40, but some pound shop stuff which is indeed silicone based.
 
I have seen a lot of Biasi boilers and never seen any non stainless ones plated ones.

But might be a cheap copy part.

Is it actually smaller size on the worn part?

What happens if you rub them with wire wool?

Silicone grease is somewhat sticky and will better stick to the rod than a silicone spray so stay effective for longer.

Tony
 
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It just doesn't feel as smooth on the worn part, despite cleaning all the crud off. The worn part looks like steel but the unworn part is shiny-shiny, iyswim?

Hopefully, it is now bedding in and seems to be working..
 

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