Biasi Riva Compact HE
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Good luck, Blighty, I'm interested to know what's diagnosed. Agile, thanks for your input. I know the service manual once mentions the condensate detector on the heat exchanger, but I have searched and searched and there is no wire for such a thing, neither is it shown on the wiring diagram. The only wires are for the flue temp probe and the thermal fuse at the top. There is physically no other wire or probe apart from the ignitor and flame detector on the front. I'm concerned about this, because I just can't understand how it registers condensate build-up.
EDIT I'm like a dog with a bone on this, I'm afraid - I've discovered that the condensate filled the combustion chamber (because all the mineral insulation is soaking) until it flowed back down into the fan/gas jet area and just extinguished everything. Surely, there's a major fault in the design?
EDIT I'm like a dog with a bone on this, I'm afraid - I've discovered that the condensate filled the combustion chamber (because all the mineral insulation is soaking) until it flowed back down into the fan/gas jet area and just extinguished everything. Surely, there's a major fault in the design?
The boiler detects condensate backup when it reaches the flame detection electrode.
This is placed below the air/gas injection point so the boiler will have been turned off by that time.
So there is no design fault!
A thoughtful installer will place an air break below the boiler if he suspects a backup might occur.
I have attended three m110s where the condensate had backed up without any further problems.
Another condensing boiler where the condensate was taken into a rain water downpipe which had backed up. Had it rained much more it would have caused serious damage to the boiler but that fellow was very lucky.
Sometimes the ball in the condensate trap sticks and causes the boiler to lock out. The ball can be removed.
Noopin, as an illegal installer you should not have even opened the outer combustion chamber let alone removing the burner assembly!
Only registered gas engineers should be doing that and even then only when they are competent with the particular boiler and know which seals have to be replaced and how to test the boiler after reassembly. That needs a flue gas analyser as well as the assessment to demonstrate competence to use it !
Tony
Point taken - I'd just worked out that the flame detector would've cooled just before the water reached the duct, but it seems a damned unsophisticated system, when the Compact has a detector on the trap.
Now that I understand what happened, I'll wait for my regular engineer to have a look, I'm just annoyed that it didn't reset after I initially drained the condensate.
Your comments have been appreciated.
Now that I understand what happened, I'll wait for my regular engineer to have a look, I'm just annoyed that it didn't reset after I initially drained the condensate.
Your comments have been appreciated.
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If you blow a piece of frozen 22mm overflow pipe with a hairdryer, or pour hot kettle water on it, it will melt the outer layer of the 'ice plug' inside, enough to allow the condensate to flow, but if the weather remains extremely cold, it will quickly re-block. The best way to properly clear the pipe of ice is to cut the darned thing and rejoin. Give the pipe a shake and if it rattles, there's still ice inside!
Amusingly last night I dissed the pipe and was clearing the elbow coming from the wall leaving the open vertical section below.
From time to time slowly up floated the inner core of ice from the top of the vertical section.
The customer and I had to laugh because it was so amusing how it so slowly floated up at about 10 mm per second!
Tony
From time to time slowly up floated the inner core of ice from the top of the vertical section.
The customer and I had to laugh because it was so amusing how it so slowly floated up at about 10 mm per second!
Tony
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