Boiler blowing fuse?

[will_08]

Hey guys,

Recently my Heatline solaris 30Ps, blew the fuse in the fused spur, i changed it. it worked for a while but now it blows the two 20mm glass fuses on the circuit board.

What i notice is when i leave it on hot water only its fine, when i put the heating on it blows shortly after?

When i look inside the only thing that doesnt look right is there is a small leak from what my friend says is the water diverter solenoid.

Has anyone came across this before?

Thanks for any advice in advance Will

 

[holty]

a water leak in an electrically powered boiler

 

[will_08]

Thanks for the reply, Ive a degree in electgronics, but i think my 5 year old might have deduced water and electircity dont mix.

The board is well away from where the water slightly pools, and there is no sign of water damage on the PCB Thanks anyway!

 

[will_08]

I also have a degree in electronics!

 

[mickyg]

you've found the fault already. Leaking diverter spindle, leaking into motor and shorting L & N. Had the same thing happen on other similarly designed boilers.
I think its quite common on heatlines, they modified the design to include a double o ring seal as opposed to the original single o ring. You should be able to purchase just the top part and the spindle shaft as a kit, and a new motor.

 

[Agile]

Why do you have to post a second time when:-

1, You could have just edited your first post.

2. You had already told us of your degree.

I am also a little surprised that you were unable to identify the component as a motor driven actuator.

Nor did you choose to do resistance measurements on it as they would have identifyed that water is leaking from the diverter valve actuator pin seal into the moptor causing the overcurrent.

It also sounds as if you uprated the spur fuse above 3 A which increases the chance of blowing the track on the circuit board.

So now you need a new diverter valve ( or just the gland if available ) as well as a motor actuator. All because the installer did not bother to power flush the system.

Tony

 

[will_08]

Thank you both for the replies, i wasnt trying to boast i had a degree, only repsonding to a slightly condesending initial post.

Also sorry, didnt realise you were a moderator, i wont post twice again in a row.

Edited this time, hope thats ok, the boiler would work maybe overnight for instance, so would that have shown on an ohm meter?

 

[Agile]

If you disconnect the motor then it will work for ever as long as you only want hot water.

If you remove the motor you can manually push the pin to select whatever you want.

Tony

 

[will_08]

Ok, thanks for the advice Tony, ill look over it tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help.

Will

 

[holty]

love this bit on that link

Q: Do you have to take any special precautions with the upfeed gravity system?
A: Yes, if you have to drain the system, be careful how you refill it. Start off with all the radiator vents open. Then, slowly fill the system, one floor at a time. When water flows from the vents on the first floor, quickly close them all. Then, continue filling until water rises to the second floor. Shut all the air vents and move up to the third floor. Once you have all the radiators filled, fill the system to the one-third-full point in the expansion tank.

 

[holty]

whoops wrong topic

 

[bengasman]

Thanks for the reply, Ive a degree in electgronics...

Interesting. Doesn't your degree in electronics go far enough to figure out why a fuse blows? Surely a diagram and a multitester will show you quickly enough where the cause lies.