Boiler electrics within Kitchen

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Hello,

I am fitting a new kitchen in my house. My combi boiler is in the kitchen exposed on one wall. It has a number of pipes coming from the bottom, down to the ground. I am going to box these in with timber boxing. The boiler’s electric is provided by a plug on the end of a flex. The closest plug socket (single) is on the next wall 90 degrees to the boiler wall, under where the new sink will go (is the position of the socket under the repositioned sink an issue?).

The problem is that the flex is too short to reach the plug socket. I intend on running the flex in the boxing I will put around the pipework, then along the floor (a few inches up?) and round to the single plug socket under the sink. I would like some advice about whether this is suitable, and what would be the best way to extend the boiler flex (junction box in pipe housing?)? I appreciate that with this being in the kitchen there are part ‘p’ implications. If need be I will have to get a registered sparky to help, but I would rather do myself (to minimise cost). I am pretty competent with basic electrics, and have already changed lighting and extended rings/spurred elsewhere in the house.

Also a washing machine will be housed next to the sink, so I would like to use the same plug socket for that. I think the socket is a spur, but I was hoping I could substitute this with a double socket myself without having to involve a sparky?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Regards,

James
 
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Me thinks you should consult your BCO regarding this one... all works in a kitchen is notifiable.

Anyway, a few questions back to you, then maybe we can give you a better responce....

Whats the Electrics in the kitchen like? RCBO protected? Seperate ring?

Are you moving the sink from a different location, ie, you moving a sink nearer to your boiler? and placing it over an existing socket?

You say you intend to box in the Cable with the pipe works.... What rating is the cable.??? Having it boxed in with HOT pipework isnt the best practice.... Even for a DIYer....
 
Hi MasterAbacus,

Many thanks for your reply.

In the kicthen, there is two double plug sockets at worktop level on the downstairs ring, with a spur from one down to about 400mm from floor level (under the new sink). There is also a seperate ring for the cooker and cooker socket (fused).

The sink was on the same wall as the boiler, but I am moving it to the wall 90degrees to that wall, which is now positioning it above the spurred socket.

The boiler was installed before I moved in and was highly questionable. The flex from the boiler was wired to a FCB in one of the kitchen wall units, which in-turn ran a cable to one of the worktop plug sockets. I have since had the heating/plumbing re installed and extended (there was no heating or h/water upstairs) by a registered corgi installer (however he couldn't do electric).

I am not at home so cannot currently comment on rating of flex from boiler. I was going to secure it to side wall of boxing, positioning it at least 100mm from closest pipe.

There were some structural changes made to the building including opening small kitchen up with back room by opening doorway up with archway, so I have already a building regs applied for works to the house, so I guess I can include this in with them.
 
the socket has to be 300mm from bowl.

some MI's allow plug connection but usually to unswitched socket.

Put a longer leed on.
 
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Im pretty sure you will struggle to add the electric works to the job, unless you stated them to start with. and if then you will have ot have them tested out as you say your not Qualified.

Im pretty sure now all new works in a Kitchen have to be pretected by thier own RCBO protected ring, and for example your washer will have to be fitted on a socket behind the unit with fused switch above work suface.

there are many grey areas and many do`s and donts when it comes to Kitchens.... Im sure one on here will be able to confirm exact regs etc....

Its one of them jobs i think you have to go all out on and do correctly these days, instead of doing bits and bobs....

Maybe have a read through several other relating posts on here.... might give you more of an insight.
 
Would I be able to move the single socket an acceptable distance from the sink tub myself (whilst replacing single socket for double). I'm guessing not again, as kitchen work.

I guess I am going to have to bite the bullet and pay a qualified sparky a few hundred quid to sort this out for me :cry:
 

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