I have one coming for the flow today
I have been checking it manually, usually around 25-30% modulation when the hot water is onAre you able to get one for boiler modulation % as well for the same time period?
It’s a greenstar8000 35kw system boiler, set to 65.
That gives a boiler output and coil rating of ~ 35*25%, 8.75kw, where the mystery still is though is the 15 minutes running to increase the HW temperature by a max of 1.5C, it only requires, 300*1.5/860, 0.523kwh which should, theoretically, only take, 0.523/8.75*60, 3.6 minutes say 5 minutes max even allowing for reheating ~ 20 litres of system water. Of course the whole thing is distorted by this ridiculous tiny switching differential, you should look seriously at getting that stat changed, can you identify the manufacturer?, they can then be contacted to find what the actual switching differential is/should be.I have been checking it manually, usually around 25-30% modulation when the hot water is on
Yea, so I removed their temp probe today, turned the power off to the tank once it was up to temp and left it while I was out. Over almost 6hrs it lost 3.5 degrees, which given the thermostat pocket seems to be at the bottom of the tank, doesn’t seem too bad, so I am wondering if instead of the system leaking hot somewhere, it’s just the thermostat is too sensitive, as during that time it would normally have fired 4/5 times, which would roughly equate to every time I dropped a single degree….this is the thermostat - https://www.unventedcomponentseurop...GzOJeNeve9awYUd_6Cxb0CfOhD6Dtt7xoCOJMQAvD_BwEThat gives a boiler output and coil rating of ~ 35*25%, 8.75kw, where the mystery still is though is the 15 minutes running to increase the HW temperature by a max of 1.5C, it only requires, 300*1.5/860, 0.523kwh which should, theoretically, only take, 0.523/8.75*60, 3.6 minutes say 5 minutes max even allowing for reheating ~ 20 litres of system water. Of course the whole thing is distorted by this ridiculous tiny switching differential, you should look seriously at getting that stat changed, can you identify the manufacturer?, they can then be contacted to find what the actual switching differential is/should be.
PaulYea, so I removed their temp probe today, turned the power off to the tank once it was up to temp and left it while I was out. Over almost 6hrs it lost 3.5 degrees, which given the thermostat pocket seems to be at the bottom of the tank, doesn’t seem too bad, so I am wondering if instead of the system leaking hot somewhere, it’s just the thermostat is too sensitive, as during that time it would normally have fired 4/5 times, which would roughly equate to every time I dropped a single degree….this is the thermostat - https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/heatrae-sadia-megaflo-megaflow-indirect-thermostat-95612697.html/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy Unvented Components Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=577425&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8sauBhB3EiwAruTRJunL3TvwpdvWi7iRnKz5KhGzOJeNeve9awYUd_6Cxb0CfOhD6Dtt7xoCOJMQAvD_BwE
It it normal for most tanks stats to have a 3/4 degree differential before calling for heat?
The hot water circuit return is around 40 degrees usually when it fires every hour, so the boiler is taking whatever is in the system (it’s prob 20m of pipe to the boiler) and the coil at roughly that temp up to 65, then heating the water. Most of the time is spent getting it up to temp, the actual cylinder reheat seems to just take a few mins.
Yea, so I removed their temp probe today, turned the power off to the tank once it was up to temp and left it while I was out. Over almost 6hrs it lost 3.5 degrees, which given the thermostat pocket seems to be at the bottom of the tank, doesn’t seem too bad,
Hi, yes it does appear to be that model! The average is just what the app the sensor is connected to shows, it’s not correct though as thats over 24hrs and the probe was only in for 6 hrs, so best ignored!Paul
Just a query or two, can you confirm that the stat is a (Cotherm) GTLH3161? and how did you arrive at the 40.71C average?
Will do a few calcs then.
but "is it normal for most tanks stats to have a 3/4 degree differential before calling for heat?"
Most certainly NOT IMO.
Ah the probe wasn’t inserted into anything before that, so that’s just the amident air temp. The flow of hot/cold was on during this time, so all was normal apart from the fact the cylinder had no power so couldn’t call for heat.Loving your data! Just to check, you hadn't turned off the flow of hot water from the cylinder this time? Why does the temperature of the cylinder shoot up so quickly from 20C to 60C right at the start?
How might this explain why the boiler didn't come on at all when previously you turned the flow from the cylinder off?
If you are right, though, and the fall is just 0.5C an hour, then it does sound to me like a dodgy thermostat. Which would be a great outcome!
Would they generally not have a differential or have it higher than that?but "is it normal for most tanks stats to have a 3/4 degree differential before calling for heat?"
Most certainly NOT IMO.
Thats great info, thankyou. So I am basically losing around triple what your 150L tank is losing in kWh and double in temp. The manual for the tank says that the standing heat loss for the 300L tank is 2.72kWh per day, so I am losing around 3x that based on the above.I rang the UK re the Cotherm GTLH3161 and am awaiting a call back from some technical person.
Below are the calcs on my 150L cylinder and the calcs based on your info above. Your losses, if not due to leakage, are quite high.
150L HW Cylinder
elapsed time, hrs 4.49
loss. Deg C 2.5
loss/hr. Deg C 0.56
loss/24 hr. Deg C 13.36
loss/24 hr. kw 2.16
Heated Vol Ltrs 139
Loss Rating watts 90
300L HW Cylinder
elapsed time, hrs 5.266
loss. Deg C 6.00
loss/hr. Deg C 1.14
loss/24 hr. Deg C 27.35
loss/24 hr. kw 9.54
Heated Vol Ltrs 300
Loss Rating watts 397
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