Boiler Saga Continues - Probable Leak...(Update 24/12/20 - Trace and Access visit)

The experts I spoke to didn't really mention the thermal imaging, only as one possible method of operation, they were mainly talking about draining the system and inserting a gas. Presumably the leak isn't in a wall or even near a wall because there's no signs of dampness anywhere...
I have used a thermal imaging camera a few times and only time it worked was it showed up a slightly diffent tem above a skirting board on a plaster board wall so we cut a hatch there and found the leak, it cant penetrate laminate and wooden floor and insulation, if you had say a concrete floor and only tinys batton before the floor was added it might work but it wont in your situation
 
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Surely backside will have to go in at some point :ROFLMAO:

Here's a brief video from the inspection camera.





The experts I spoke to didn't really mention the thermal imaging, only as one possible method of operation, they were mainly talking about draining the system and inserting a gas. Presumably the leak isn't in a wall or even near a wall because there's no signs of dampness anywhere...



Ahh right, with you.



Do you mean close the valves to isolate the downstairs heating pipes?



Do you mean from the bucket? It's hard to say in a measurement but around 30ml?



Would this work without being able to see under the floor? Presumably that's how I could get the UV dye in there?

If you have a filter in the system that would be easier, but yes would be the same way to put the UV dye in.

I would say for your issue UV dye would be more beneficial as you will be viewing through a removed air brick with very little light available, in which you may not see the drain tracing dye.
 
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If you have a filter in the system that would be easier, but yes would be the same way to put the UV dye in.

I would say for your issue UV dye would be more beneficial as you will be viewing through a removed air brick with very little light available, in which you may not see the drain tracing dye.

Thanks. This might be a stupid question, in order for the UV idea to work, presumably I'd have to be shining the torch under the floor somewhere? I can get in a couple of airbricks but that's not going to see a massive amount.
 
I've put thick polythene sheeting down first....you can then slide around much easier when it gets really tight.
 
How old's that pipework? No lagging, potential for other leaks, dead legs - if it was my house I'd be putting the grand towards a re-pipe - plastic/manifold.
 
How old's that pipework? No lagging, potential for other leaks, dead legs - if it was my house I'd be putting the grand towards a re-pipe - plastic/manifold.

Not sure to be honest we've only been in the house 18 months.

Would a re-pipe require ripping the floors up? I'm not adverse to that if it's within a similar cost. We could do with another radiator in the open plan room as well to be honest.
 
If you have a filter in the system that would be easier, but yes would be the same way to put the UV dye in.

I would say for your issue UV dye would be more beneficial as you will be viewing through a removed air brick with very little light available, in which you may not see the drain tracing dye.
Drain dye i have used is luminous green. Powder is red, changes when wet.
I once lit up a whole hospital basement that was flooded when I dropped a tub full.
It turned a local lido green, police and fire engines turned up. They thought it was a chemical leak.
 
As gasguru said
Drain dye i have used is luminous green. Powder is red, changes when wet.
I once lit up a whole hospital basement that was flooded when I dropped a tub full.
It turned a local lido green, police and fire engines turned up. They thought it was a chemical leak.

Hahaha
 
Does that mean like it sounds? Lots of small pinholes?

Batches of poor quality copper pipe were sold in the UK in the 1980's, which sometimes suffered pinholes through the tube wall. Probably not lots of them, but you only need one to cause a problem. The suggested fix was to rip all of the pipe out and renew. Of course that is only if it turns out to be a pinhole - it could be a bad joint, or a failure on the plastic items.
 
Does that mean like it sounds? Lots of small pinholes?
Yup, along with the brown stains around the speedfit fittings. Looks like multiple tiny leaks,
Evaporating away when the heating is on. Could be why the sub floor looks dry.
 

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