Boilermate 2000 Hot water or lack of

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Once you have solved the DHW problem, I would do the following:

1) Fit a Magnaclean filter on the CH return loop to the Boilemate.
2) Make sure you have enough inhibitor in the system - minimum 2 cans of X-100.

You can improve the system further.

1) Replace the CH pump (have this as a spare for the others, so no waste) with a Grundfos Alpha or Wilo Smart pump (£45 on s/fix). Fit a full bore valves either side of the Magnaclean.
2) Link out the room stat terminals and remove any wall room stat.
3) Fit TRVs on all rads.

Comfort conditions, economy and pump noise levels will be improved.

So for under £180 you can give top class protection to the system and gives superior comfort conditions in the house...and less pump noises.
 
No, do as follows:

Remove the green from 16 and connect it to 3.
Remove the blue from 17 and connect it to 2.
Remove the brown from 13 and connect it to 1.

And, before you switch on, verify that your BM2000 wiring matches the diagram. Assume nothing.

Ok I connected the DHW pump as described and ran the hot water. The water read 65 and then dropped steadily to 22 after a few seconds, then it fluctuated as before (ie between 22 & 30).

The store temp was reading 73.

Does this mean the pump is faulty? Or could it be the plate heat exchanger being scaled up again?
 
It's the heat exchanger.

If you fit a new one and it's not that, then I'll buy it from you.
 
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It's the heat exchanger.

If you fit a new one and it's not that, then I'll buy it from you.

Thanks Softus,

How easy is it to replace the heat exchanger? Is it something I could do myself?

As this will be the second time in 18 months will a water softener help? Or is it likely that the heat store side will get scaled up even if the DHW side doesn't?

Many thanks,

Simon
 
How easy is it to replace the heat exchanger? Is it something I could do myself?
Fairly easy, and yes you can.

The important thing is to drain down - there's too much scalding water in the store to take risks.

Replace the drain off washer when the store is empty.

A slimline 30mm open-ended spanner is the best tool for the heat exchanger nuts.

Some BM2000s get blocked on the cold feed; others on the vent. Leave plenty of time for filling the system in case this happens to you.

As this will be the second time in 18 months will a water softener help?
Yes, but you would need to fill the store with unsoftened water.

It depends whether you want to spend £120 every 18 months, or shell out £x00 on a softener and then bear the recurring costs of servicing and salt.

Or is it likely that the heat store side will get scaled up even if the DHW side doesn't?
The primary side doesn't scale up, but without inhibitor it would get gunged.

When you change your HEX, leave out the inhibitor on the first fill so that you can't blame me for the extra expense if it turns out I'm wrong (but I'm not). :D
 
Fairly easy, and yes you can.

The important thing is to drain down - there's too much scalding water in the store to take risks.

Replace the drain off washer when the store is empty.

A slimline 30mm open-ended spanner is the best tool for the heat exchanger nuts.

Some BM2000s get blocked on the cold feed; others on the vent. Leave plenty of time for filling the system in case this happens to you.

Can you give me a step by step guide to changing the plate heat exchanger?
How much water is contained in the store? How long does it take to drain?

Thanks
 
Can you give me a step by step guide to changing the plate heat exchanger?

. Buy new heat exchanger.
. Buy spare drain off washers.
. Shut off power to BM2000 (and boiler).
. Shut off water supply to F&E cistern.
. Drain.
. Shut off cold mains supply to BM2000.
. Open lowest hot tap in the house.
. Undo top secondary connection on heat exchanger.
. Get a drip tray ready, and undo bottom secondary connection.
. Undo top primary connection.
. Slacken bottom primary connection.
. Swing down heat exchanger and drain into drip tray.
. Undo bottom primary connection and remove old heat exchanger.
. Remove old rubber washers.
. Install new heat exchanger with new rubber washers. Don't drop them down cracks in the flooring. Don't overtighten.
. Replace drain off washer.
. Close lowest hot tap in the house.
. Reinstate cold mains supply to BM2000, and check for leaks on secondary connections.
. Check F&E cistern for gunk - sponge out if necessary.
. Reinstate water supply to F&E. Allow BM2000 to fill and check for leaks on primary connections.
. If no leaks, then shut off F&E supply again, and drain off about 8 gallons of water.
. Add inhibitor to F&E, then fill up again.
. Restore power to BM2000, and allow 30 to 60 minutes to heat up.
. Test.


How much water is contained in the store?
The answer is on the label on the front of the appliance.

How long does it take to drain?
10 to 15 minutes unless the vent and cold feed are blocked.
 
Thanks Softus! You were correct the PHE was scaled up on one side.

I have replaced the PHE and we now have lots of reliable hot water.
I guess this will be an annual job for me now with the rate at which the scale builds up!

Many thanks for your help.

Woody
 
Thanks Softus! You were correct the PHE was scaled up on one side.

I have replaced the PHE and we now have lots of reliable hot water.
I guess this will be an annual job for me now with the rate at which the scale builds up!

Many thanks for your help.

Woody

Clean the old one and use a straight swap next time.... Or get a water softener.
 
Thanks Softus! You were correct the PHE was scaled up on one side.
Well paint me yellow and call me a kipper. :)

I have replaced the PHE and we now have lots of reliable hot water.

I guess this will be an annual job for me now with the rate at which the scale builds up!
Keep an eye on dripping taps, and also that the pump control is keeping the temperature to a reasonable level (i.e. around 55-60°C).

Many thanks for your help.
My pleasure.

Clean the old one and use a straight swap next time.... Or get a water softener.
It was a straight swap this time, oh challenged one. :rolleyes:

I've said it before and I'll say it again - you've never descaled one of these, and therefore you don't know what you're talking about, you utter, utter, charlatan.
 
Clean the old one and use a straight swap next time.... Or get a water softener.
It was a straight swap this time, oh challenged one.

The only challenged one is you. You can't read properly.

I've said it before and I'll say it again - you've never descaled one of these, and therefore you don't know what you're talking about, you utter, utter, charlatan.

You should stop making things up. ...and stick to drains.
 
You are of the deluded opinion that a plate heat exchanger cannot be descaled.
I've never written that, and I've never thought it.

The fact remains that you've never successfully descaled a GT017.
 

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