Box in Electric supply

[EdTurtle]

I see what you're saying - i wont be rendering it in, and i never intended to do that - what i was thinking initially was rendering up to it but think it would be easier to batten as the updates suggest.

It will only be covered between the worktop and bottom of wall cabinets - anyone who opens the wall cabinet will see the electric meter and the cable coming in from the bottom. I would hope this would be enough? What sort of metal would work if not?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

What sort of metal would work if not?

Steel! A flat strip, maybe 3" wide x whatever length is needed. You could fix that in place, to the back of your board, or perhaps the front.

 

[EdTurtle]

Like this?

Heavy Duty Flat Strap

A metal strap suitable for horizontal restraint applications such as tying timber roofs and floors into masonry walls. Supplied in a 1m length with 6mm holes at 25mm offset centres for a firm fix, this heavy-duty flat strap is made from galvanised steel.• Supplied in a 1m length – 28mm width and...

www.toolstation.com

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Like this?

Heavy Duty Flat Strap

A metal strap suitable for horizontal restraint applications such as tying timber roofs and floors into masonry walls. Supplied in a 1m length with 6mm holes at 25mm offset centres for a firm fix, this heavy-duty flat strap is made from galvanised steel.• Supplied in a 1m length – 28mm width and...

www.toolstation.com

That would be fine, on the front face of the panelling, where it could be seen, but on the reverse side, the holes would make it a bit hit-and-miss, at preventing a screw or drill going straight though to the cable. It is a bit narrow at 30mm, it likely needs to be around 70/80mm wide, but 0.5mm thick should be enough.

I would be looking for something like, steel electrical trunking lid.

 

[EdTurtle]

That would be fine, on the front face of the panelling, where it could be seen, but on the reverse side, the holes would make it a bit hit-and-miss, at preventing a screw or drill going straight though to the cable.

Not doing very well at this am i

Dont worry, i understand, i can find something

 

[JohnD]

Trunking lid could be screwed over the cable and be permanently visible but accessible.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Trunking lid could be screwed over the cable and be permanently visible but accessible.

I was trying to avoid the OP, having to disturb the incomer in any way at all.

 

[EdTurtle]

Trunking lid could be screwed over the cable and be permanently visible but accessible.

Something like this?

Marshall-Tufflex Mono 10 Trunking

• PVC-U Trunking Assembly White• 1 Main compartment• Can be subdivided• Suitable for dado applications as a feeder trunking system• Self extinguishing and non-flame propagating PVC-U• Compliant up to Cat 7aMono 10 Trunking is a compact trunking system that is perfectly suited for small office...

www.toolstation.com

I was trying to avoid the OP, having to disturb the incomer in any way at all.

I don't really want to go near it; but I also want to finish the walls in the whole room (it's not a garage - more of a workshop).

Would it be better to board the whole wall with the 3x2 on the face, so the battens would be 38mm from the wall - enough to get the cables behind. Then fix the 3x2 on edge either side of the supply cable - so 63mm from wall. I could then plasterboard the entire wall, except where the supply is, which could then have ply screw to the battens. Would make it v obvious where the supply is then, and be easily removable. I would only need to remove about 20mm from the bottom of the cabinet for the supply cable.

The supply cable would be uncovered behind the base units, but the worktop would also need to be notched around the cable. Would mean an annoying 'lump' in the middle of the wall though.

 

[JohnD]

Something like this?

I was thinking more of the rectangular steel trunking.