Boxing for pipes

[Jupiter01]

I have a vertical soil pipe that needs to be boxed in the bathroom and then tiled. I would like some advice on how this should be constructed please. I was thinking of using 4x2 timbers on the wall and a floating timber in the corner - with plaster boards covering the sides and screwed to the battens.

Is this the way to go? Particularly, the batten in the centre.

 

[lostinthelight]

I used 2x1 ,2 at right angles on the outside corner, once plaster board and skim is on it would take a bomb to. move it

 

[Jupiter01]

How did the plasterboard join on the external corner?

 

[lostinthelight]

like it normally does ,one sheet overlaps the end of the other cos the right angle is opposite way to what you may be thinking?

 

[Jupiter01]

Just to be clear, how do you form the join in E

 

[lostinthelight]

I only did it this way cos it took up slightly less space out of a very small on suite..every inch helps they say

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You screw through the first strip of PB into a 2 x 1, then add the second one screwing through the same 2 x 1 at right angles and ito the batten which you have already fixed to the wall

 

[Jupiter01]

I’m really sorry guys but I still don’t follow this...
I can see from the graphic above (and the one I posted) that we have two battens screwed to the wall. The plasterboards that are screwed to this are solid. Understood.
When the two PB sheets meet in the centre, there is another batten that both PB’s need to a real into - to form the external corner.
What is this batten fixed to? Or is it “floating”?

I have a soil pipe that needs to be boxed and am worried that this type of structure may be wobbly.

Thanks again

 

[Deleted member 174758]

One batten is fixed to the wall, a second to the floor (or 2nd wall). The third is fixed to the strip of material which will form the "front" - along one edge. This piece is then fixed to the floor (or 2nd wall) batten. The cover piece of material is then fixed to both the (1st) wall batten and the third batten. Ideally if this boxing is in an area where there will be potential for damage (e.g. along or near floor level) your materials need to be something like softwood batten and plywood (12mm) or MR-MDF cladding and not PB unless you intend to protect the area near the floor by adding a skirting board. If using 12mm PB it would be possible to build the bottom 2 or 3ft of the boxing in timber products and use PB above that to save money. Fixings need to be at something like 200mm (for plywood/MDF) or 300mm (PB) centres. For PB I'd add scrim tape on the outside of the corner as well. Personally, though, I'd go for plywood or MR-MDF rather than PB - costs a bit more but far, far stronger. This technique, whilst not as strong as fully framed boxing, has the advantage of being really small in comparison and therefore useful for tight spaces.

 

[Jupiter01]

The third is fixed to the strip of material which will form the "front" - along one edge. This piece is then fixed to the floor (or 2nd wall) batten.

This is the butt of my confusion.
Firstly, I assume it can’t be connected to the second batten as the second batten is screwed to the wall and note that I am boxing a 110mm pipe.

the third batten is the batten in the corner where the two plasterboard pieces meet. Correct?

you’ve also suggested that I can screw this to the floor. Do you mean a screw angled through the batten into the floor board?

 

[lostinthelight]

I screw battons flat to the floor and ceiling to screw the verticals into
something like diagram

 

[Jupiter01]

That’s very helpful and perfectly clear. Thanks

 

[lostinthelight]

If theres any danger of hitting pipes or cables, short fixings and or grab adhesive

 

[Jupiter01]

Do you think grab adhesive would be okay to hold the weight of the batten and plasterboard to the tiled surface? I’d prefer to do that rather than drill into the tiles

 

[lostinthelight]

I have not tried to fix with grab on tiles, TBH I would have boxed before tiling