How to accurately fix battens to a solid wall.

[L_Plate]

Just to clear up that earlier misnomer. It wasn't Duckboard , it was Dukkaboard. Evidently this is pretty similar to Marmox. Anyway, as ever, a question or three:

1. The wall to be tiled is 1,850mm x 650mm. The Dukkaboard panels are 1300mm x 600mm. The total surface area of the wall is, then, 1,2sq m. The total surface area of the 2 panels is 1,6 sq m. So, with just two panels, I have enough panelling to cover the entire wall, but only if I resort to cutting them into several irregular pieces. Is it acceptable to do this or should I look to obtain a third panel so that I have three regular(ish) pieces – 3 times 650 x 600? In fact this would still leave an area of 50mm x 650mm uncovered but I an extra piece that will cover this part.

2. A Dukkaboard info sheet describes using stainless steel fixing dowels for solid walls, whereas I was intending to use screws and washers as shown earlier. Do you tyhink this is OK?

3. What is the best tape to use for the panel joints?

Cheers.

 

[Richard C]

Just to clear up that earlier misnomer. It wasn't Duckboard , it was Dukkaboard. Evidently this is pretty similar to Marmox.

Never heard of it before but from my experience with Danish products, it should be good but probably rather expensive but I haven’t checked technical detail or price.

1. The wall to be tiled is 1,850mm x 650mm. The Dukkaboard panels are 1300mm x 600mm. The total surface area of the wall is, then, 1,2sq m. The total surface area of the 2 panels is 1,6 sq m. So, with just two panels, I have enough panelling to cover the entire wall, but only if I resort to cutting them into several irregular pieces. Is it acceptable to do this or should I look to obtain a third panel so that I have three regular(ish) pieces – 3 times 650 x 600? In fact this would still leave an area of 50mm x 650mm uncovered but I an extra piece that will cover this part.

Joints are potential failure points, go for the minimum number possible, don't use a mish mash of bits; remember it's not just a lining, it's got to be rigid & support the weight of the tiles which could be up to 30 kg/sqm or even more in some casses. You also need to plan the board layout around the size of tiles you’re using as board the joints should not coincide with tile grout lines.

2. A Dukkaboard info sheet describes using stainless steel fixing dowels for solid walls, whereas I was intending to use screws and washers as shown earlier. Do you tyhink this is OK?

As I said, I’ve never heard of it & no experience of using it. It’s dot & dabbed as I mentioned originally & then uses what look likes a nailed dowel system. Personally I would prefer to see screws & the Marmox fixings may be OK but why not just use Marmox or Aquapanel. Although I do it with some products I know well, there is always a danger that not following the manufacturers instructions will lead to failure; it will certainly invalidate any warranty.

3. What is the best tape to use for the panel joints?

Nearly all of the board manufacturers have their own bespoke/branded tape but I just use 2 inch wide glass fibre plasterboard reinforcing tape; being a plasterer as well, I always have some around.

 

[L_Plate]

Excellent advice, Richard. Thanks again.

 

[L_Plate]

Just another couple of questions, Richard. You said in your earlier post:

...take it easy with the fixings, they are only suposed to be temporary & hold the 1st row of tiles up. Tape & fill screw holes after.

I am only using 150mm square tiles, about 5mm thick. The area will be covered by only be 4 and a bit tiles across. Surely I can set more than 1 row of tiles in place on the fixed battens? I was hoping to set about 10 rows in place, which would be 90% of the wall, but if this is unwise I will just let the first row dry overnight before doing the rest.

As for the jointing tape, do you think I am OK to use MAXIFIX Self-adhesive joint & repair tape? The proprietary stuff is a special order and takes a couple of days to obtain.

Thanks again.

 

[Richard C]

Surely I can set more than 1 row of tiles in place on the fixed battens? I was hoping to set about 10 rows in place, which would be 90% of the wall, but if this is unwise I will just let the first row dry overnight before doing the rest.

Yes of course you can; the batten is only there to give you a level datum to start tiling from, once the 1st row of tiles are in place & the adhesive has “grabbed”, it’s that row of tiles that will support the row above & so on; you could remove the batten after, say, half an hour & it wouldn’t make any difference.

As for the jointing tape, do you think I am OK to use MAXIFIX Self-adhesive joint & repair tape? The proprietary stuff is a special order and takes a couple of days to obtain.

I can’t find that one on the Maxifix web site. What you need is a 48/50mm wide glass fibre reinforced self adhesive tape; I use plasterboard joint tape because I’ve always got lots of it but something like this is fine;
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...refview=search&ts=1275143802899&isSearch=true

 

[Richard C]

Forgot to add; make sure you use a quality trade adhesive - BAL, Mapei, Webber etc keep away from the cheapo DIY products.

 

[L_Plate]

The Maxifix looks pretty similar to the Aquapanel tape, except it is 48mm x 90m compared to 48mm x 20m. That said, I think I will pick up a roll from B&Q. Once the tape is up do I need to use a filler to seal the tape or can I just rely on the tile adhesive for this?

Thanks for the tip re adhesives.

 

[Richard C]

Just before you tile, smear a little tile adhesive along & into the joint lines with a trowel, stick the joint tape over & then smear more adhesive over the top so that all of the tape mesh is filled but you can still see the top of the tape, too much & you will create a small hump.

 

[L_Plate]

Richard, when it comes to the section of cut tiles in the internal corner should I remove the other cut tiles on the adjacent wall and retile here so that they meet more accurately? That is to say recut these tiles so that they join the tiles on the main wall properly.

Otherwise the tiles on the adjacent wall will run beyond the depth of the newly tiled wall and the Dukkaboard (about 15mm). Then, it would seem, the only way to properly seal this corner would be with silicone sealant and I guess this is not the done thing?

Thanks again.

 

[Richard C]

It’s actually good practice to run a bead of silicone down the corner wall joints instead of grouting. Adjacent walls can have some differential movement especially if they are made from different materials & this can lead to cracks down the corner joint. Not ideal but if the tiles are in place I wouldn’t try removing them, tile up to them on the adjacent wall leaving a 2mm gap; run a bead of silicone down the corner with an uncut nozzle making sure you get it well inside between the tiles & clean of any excess. Cut the nozzle to suit the required size of finish bead & immediately run a second bead of silicone between the face of the adjacent tiles & sooth off to finish.

 

[L_Plate]

Unfortunately I have been a bit delayed in getting this job complete. I should mention that I started the tiling using a Mapei adhesive (which I have used before), but upon running out I replaced this with a tub of Vallance Suregrip – Mapei, Webber and Bal were not available at any of the stores.

I was intending to do the grouting and sealing today but before commencing I checked to discover a couple of tiles had slipped off the wall. These were both on the Vallance Suregrip section. The adhesive was still quite moist which surprised me. There is not much info on the tub with regard to recommended drying times and a prevailing website seems non-existent, but I wonder if there is problem with this stuff? I would have expected drying times to be quite short given the current weather.

Once the grout and sealant are in place how long before the shower can be used?

 

[Richard C]

I was intending to do the grouting and sealing today but before commencing I checked to discover a couple of tiles had slipped off the wall. These were both on the Vallance Suregrip section. The adhesive was still quite moist which surprised me.

Oh dear, never heard of it; but Christ it’s cheap & that should be a clue it certainly sounds like it lives up to its name.

Once the grout and sealant are in place how long before the shower can be used?

Would you believe 10-14 days; but maybe longer with the Vallance Suregrip stuff!

 

[L_Plate]

Blimey, that's worrying. Actually the store I was in usually sells all of the adhesives that you specified but none were available last week. This seemed to be the same case at several other outlets. Is it possible that there is surfeit of rubbish material has come on to the market recently? I I was buying quite a bit of other stuff so did not really check the price - stupid, I know - assuming it to be similar to the more established brands. The store caters mostly for trade so I am surprised that they would be selling rubbish.