Not really just notch one end to go in the steel, slide it in, drop the other end in your hanger
Sounds like he's fobbing you off, it might make his job a bit easier but most brickies will just work from one side.
breaking through question..
- Thread starter needmorstuff
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I cant get my head round what hes on about.. hes got no choice though. That floor cant go in until the steel is in.
My cavity in the wall I am breaking through is 75mm, do i just get 1 steel that sits on both courses? or 2 at 100mm wide. If i get 2 then the "c" section on the steel will be quite narrow and wont readily accept the joists I dont think.
My cavity in the wall I am breaking through is 75mm, do i just get 1 steel that sits on both courses? or 2 at 100mm wide. If i get 2 then the "c" section on the steel will be quite narrow and wont readily accept the joists I dont think.
Are building control involved in this or is it being made up as you go? They need to confirm that your proposals are aceptable.
A suitable steel needs to be calculated and if two, bolted together to share the load. You should not load the flange with joists, they are hung off the top or hung off a timber bolted to the web
A suitable steel needs to be calculated and if two, bolted together to share the load. You should not load the flange with joists, they are hung off the top or hung off a timber bolted to the web
Last time I spoke to BC I told them I was going to put a box lintel on outside and another box lintel on inside. They did say thats fine - they also said I could use an RSJ and that the commercially available ones are fine to use. Again no mention of an SE getting involved.
However now I have seen it is possible to have a flush ceiling from existing room into extension I am looking to do that. Thanks for the info on not loading the flange, that's really helpful. I could then in this scenario indeed put a box lintel on the outside skin. Then on the inside I could support the joists with scaffolding board and props, the brickwork above with more props through the floor and then cut back the joists to allow a steel with timber bolted to it be inserted. Then hang the existing floor joists on hangers attached the the timber in the web.
Now I have typed all that it seems overly complicated to placate my brickys need to work off a floor!
I am going to post a job on rated people to do it for me as the bricky isnt filling me with confidence about breaking through.
If you forget everything I have said - what is the vanilla way to breakthrough keeping the ceiling flush when joists are running at right angles to the wall you are breaking through, there is a wall above and the roof above that with the trusses on the wall plate on that wall.
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not wishing to contradict but this suggest that you can load the flange, provided a couple of conditions are met. an se designs it. both sides are loaded and 12mm/2mm wood projects out of the top and bottom respectively. and that there is 45mm bearing
I will speak with building control to see what they think.
http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part6/section4/default.htm
I will speak with building control to see what they think.
http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part6/section4/default.htm
Where does it suggest?
On the web page that I have linked to unless I have misinterpreted what it is saying
The flange can be loaded but it needs to be designed and calculated just like any loading on a steel beam, whether it's fixed to the web or sat on top.
If you plan on using a steel beam you really need to get some calcs done.
If you plan on using a steel beam you really need to get some calcs done.
I'll ask the architect to recommend an SE. On another point.. I am now being told by "people" that its best to put an RSJ in now (walls are at about 6 foot).. surely its best to wait until the extension is secure and watertight before I start doing any of this kind of thing...
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