Built in double oven on plug

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The house I moved into for some reason hasn't got a red switch for the cooker as it's a small built under 1. We now want a double built in oven, but all the ones we see mention they have to be hard wired. I have checked the consumer unit and the circuit I am looking at has a B32 fuse on it. Would it be safe to replace the existing socket and replace it with a cooker switch with the relevant amp capacity and connect it to that? The new oven is 20 amps, top oven 0.77 main oven 0.92 kwh and electrical connection is 4.7 kw. The kitchen is at the opposite end of the house so a rewire isn't possible. Thank you for your time and help.
 
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Built under single overs are under 13amp. Double overs demand a lot more and need to be hard wired in.
As for doing what you suggest, I thinks its a no, but wait for a sparkie to respond
 
Is the circuit that your current oven is connected to ( with a 32 amp MCB ?),a radial cooker circuit ? Or are other appliances or socket outlets connected to the circuit ?
And how is your existing oven connected to the circuit , plug and socket ?
 
Just checked it and it seems like all the sockets in the kitchen are on this circuit. All we use is kettle, toaster, fridge/freezer, washing machine, oven and the combi boiler is in there too. The only things on continuously are fridge freezer and combi boiler, which I assume draw a small amount of current?? The oven currently is plugged in on a 13amp fuse ( but was on 3amp when I moved in hence it kept blowing!!) Thank you for your time and assistance.
 
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Presumably you have a gas hob? Is there possibly another 32A breaker in the consumer unit and it it possible there's a hidden other end to this circuit in the kitchen? It's a little unusual, though not impossible, to have no cooker circuit.
 
So your cooker is plugged into a socket circuit ,rather than a dedicated radial circuit for a cooker. Are you sure there isn't a radial circuit ,but an electric hob connected to it ?
 
There is a 40 amp fuse in the consumer unit, I turned it off but it didn't seem to affect anything in the kitchen. The trouble is although the house was built just 12 months ago, there are no labels on the consumer unit indicating which fuse does what!!
 
If house was built 12 months ago I would be surprised if there isn't a cooker circuit. Who built the house LEGO ltd !!!!!
 
Wouldn't surprise me, it is a double extension built onto an old house, and the electrics astonish me, switch 1 fuse off and some lights downstairs and upstairs go off, all over the place, there is a certificate, but I'm not impressed!!
 
Does the certificate not tell you what the circuits are?

With the socket circuit breaker off, is there a socket still live in the kitchen as could of fitted a single socket on the cooker supply?
 
No, but I might ring him to see if he can remember if he fitted 1 or not. There is a 40A in the consumer unit, but it doesn't seem to turn anything off when I switch it off!! Behind the oven there is a single socket, and a gas hob above. When I turn the 32A fuse off, all the kitchen sockets including oven go off. Baffled
 
Trouble is, if the place has benefitted from a recent rewire and whoever commissioned it didn't want a cooker point then maybe one didn't get put in. I was surprised 28 years ago when rewiring my house- ran a chunk of of 6mm in for the oven (gas hob) and never used it cos the single oven ran on the ring final with everything else.

It would be a bit shady running 20A from an RFC- technically it can take the load, problem is connecting it. 13A plug is no good (it would either cook or do the fuse plus you'd never get 4mm cable into one), FCU is no use (13A fuse), a shower switch would work (not a pull cord) but cable entry would be messy, you'd need at least 4mm cable from the switch to the cooker and the method feels wrong. Anyone else? (NB Not qualified sparky so don't get too excited)
 

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