BUSH A127QW washing machine fills then drains does not wash :(

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hello all you helpful people really hoping i can fix this machine on my own!!

ok so heres the deal, at first, the machine would start up and the water drains out of the machine from previous attempts to run it when it starts up, so not the pump right? the water then turned on and ran into the prewash section of the detergent tray and then once that had run for about 1 minute and its about to fill the water for the main section of the wash starts, the breaker would trip!! so on advice from a youtube channel repair guy i replaced the water inlet valve but it still tripped at this point in the cycle, so not the solenoid in the water inlet valve. ive also disconnected the heating element and it still did this behavior tripping t same point in cycle, so not the heater element, and with other advice i have now also replaced the mains electrical interference filter and it has made a difference in the malfunction, NOW the water goes through prewash and switches to fill the drum for the main wash and does not trip the breaker anymore so thats great! BUT NOW the drum fills with water and stops and is seemingly about to start washing the clothes, but then the stop button light flashes a couple of times then the water drains out :( without washing the clothes, the drum doesnt agitate/move at all just drains out. i have not reconnected the heating element and have read that may be a problem so i will try that, but is there anything else you helpful people might know of this could be caused by? thank you!!
 
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oh it also will not spin i have just found out, if i select spin it does the draining noises then switches to the stop mode.
 
Not sure if your machine has a brushless motor or not if it has then if they have worn down conpletely or broken it could give the symptoms you describe.
You may have more than one fault so I would also check the pressure switch which will be either in the back of the drum or on the top chassis with a pipe going to the pump. These pipes sometimes block usually at the pump end, but if you take it off the switch and blow down it you should hear air bubbling in the drain pump body.
 
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Agree badly worn motor brushes will cause trip as you have metal on metal shorting out.


Why would that cause a RCD to short?

Thinking about tools that I have previously used where the brushes have worn down completely, the give away was the visible sparks (and noise).

That said, I cannot tell if the OP means that the RCD or MCB. I assume the former though given that the fuse in the plug didn't blow.

I am not an electrician but, I cannot see why worn down brushes would cause a RCD to trip. For an RCD to trip, you need leakage between the earth and live.

Years ago, I had a Miele washing machine that would go through the motions- filling and slowly turning the drum, but would not enter spin. Someone here recommended checking the brushes. Sure enough, one brush had almost worn down completely, the other almost looked new. I fitted new brushes and all was good.
 
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Well thank you guys but now I’m really stumped. I changed the brushes and turned it on and it just made quick buzzing noise now there’s no power to it. Was running before I changed the brushes so how does changing the brushes do that?
 
It’s the RCCB breaker that keeps tripping
 

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Also I did check the pressure switch by blowing down the tube it was fine. And I checked inside the pump hoses as well all good.
 
Well thank you guys but now I’m really stumped. I changed the brushes and turned it on and it just made quick buzzing noise now there’s no power to it. Was running before I changed the brushes so how does changing the brushes do that?
Motor may have been damaged , when you get metal to metal or slight gap it can create a weld spot on motor ruining it .Buzzing may have been something shorting out .
Did you take a pic of old brushes?
 
Would I be able to see that welded spot, is there anything that could be done or would the motor need replaced now? What about the shorting/buzzing has that damaged other parts now as well?
 
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It’s the RCCB breaker that keeps tripping

That suggests that there is an issue between the earth and live

Motor may have been damaged , when you get metal to metal or slight gap it can create a weld spot on motor ruining it .Buzzing may have been something shorting out .
Did you take a pic of old brushes?

Weld spot- good point, but wouldn't that blow the fuse rather than tripping the RCB?

I didn't take a photo of the worn down brushes. I didn't see the point, and whenever it happened (the sparks), I stopped using the tool.

Each of the tools were fine once I replaced the brushes. The commutator was fine in each case.
 
That suggests that there is an issue between the earth and live



Weld spot- good point, but wouldn't that blow the fuse rather than tripping the RCB?

I didn't take a photo of the worn down brushes. I didn't see the point, and whenever it happened (the sparks), I stopped using the tool.

Each of the tools were fine once I replaced the brushes. The commutator was fine in each case.
The fuse in the plug didn’t blow I just tested it.
 
Why would that cause a RCD to short?

Thinking about tools that I have previously used where the brushes have worn down completely, the give away was the visible sparks (and noise).

That said, I cannot tell if the OP means that the RCD or MCB. I assume the former though given that the fuse in the plug didn't blow.

I am not an electrician but, I cannot see why worn down brushes would cause a RCD to trip. For an RCD to trip, you need leakage between the earth and live.

Years ago, I had a Miele washing machine that would go through the motions- filling and slowly turning the drum, but would not enter spin. Someone here recommended checking the brushes. Sure enough, one brush had almost worn down completely, the other almost looked new. I fitted new brushes and all was good.
For your information https://uk.rs-online.com/web/conten...h monitoring,the leakage current reaches 30mA.
 

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