BUSH A127QW washing machine fills then drains does not wash :(

[opps]

Pics

I am only guessing here... but... I had to strip down a sander this week because it stopped working. I then noticed that the commutator was black. I cleaned the commutator and the tool started to work. I am not saying that is your problem, but have you looked at the commutator?

Edit- you have a lot of carbon build up on one of those two brushes. I am not an electrician, nor am I a washing machine repairer but it might be worthwhile checking the state of the commutator. To clean it, hold a green scouring pad against it and get someone to manually turn the drum.

 

[jj4091]

Well thank you guys but now I’m really stumped. I changed the brushes and turned it on and it just made quick buzzing noise now there’s no power to it. Was running before I changed the brushes so how does changing the brushes do that?

You originally said the motor wasn't running but the drain pump an water inlet was. If you are now saying the machine is dead again it would suggest that during the process of changing the brushes you have possibly dislodged some thing else. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it.

 

[john_john]

new brushes and stator photo

 

[john_john]

You originally said the motor wasn't running but the drain pump an water inlet was. If you are now saying the machine is dead again it would suggest that during the process of changing the brushes you have possibly dislodged some thing else. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it.

I suppose it’s possible but I don’t see how, I was very careful I didn’t touch anything else, beyond fumbling a bit with putting the new brushes in as was fist time doing it I did t touch anything else.

 

[john_john]

I am only guessing here... but... I had to strip down a sander this week because it stopped working. I then noticed that the commutator was black. I cleaned the commutator and the tool started to work. I am not saying that is your problem, but have you looked at the commutator?

Edit- you have a lot of carbon build up on one of those two brushes. I am not an electrician, nor am I a washing machine repairer but it might be worthwhile checking the state of the commutator. To clean it, hold a green scouring pad against it and get someone to manually turn the drum.

Would that cause the buzzing then the no power? I will try that.

 

[john_john]

You originally said the motor wasn't running but the drain pump an water inlet was. If you are now saying the machine is dead again it would suggest that during the process of changing the brushes you have possibly dislodged some thing else. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it.

I can get a multimeter and read how to use one I understand basically how they work. Do you think I’ve fried the motor or something now but I don’t see how all I did was change the brushes. yes it was running before just no movement in the drum. I’ve checked all the wires nothing out

 

[foxhole]

That suggests that there is an issue between the earth and live



Weld spot- good point, but wouldn't that blow the fuse rather than tripping the RCB?

I didn't take a photo of the worn down brushes. I didn't see the point, and whenever it happened (the sparks), I stopped using the tool.

Each of the tools were fine once I replaced the brushes. The commutator was fine in each case.

Tools often have a safety pin on one motor brush , Makita grinder I recently changed brushes on had a tiny spring loaded pin ( none conductive ) this pops out when the brush wears down to a set limit and stops the grinder working before any damage can occur.

 

[opps]

Would that cause the buzzing then the no power? I will try that.

Your commutator is very dirty, but I am not qualified enough to say that it would be responsible, on it own, to make the buzzing noise.

My heat pump tumble dryer recently went down that path. I had a slight buzz- took the machine apart and used my hand to spin the drum. It then spun without issue. In my case it was the motor capacitor that had failed. Cost me a tenner for a generic replacement.

I cannot say that is your problem. With my tumble dryer, it would buzz but not spin without an inertial nudge, nevertheless that doesn't explain the tripping that you previously experienced. At a guess,, I would say that perhaps you had more than one failure. Again, I am only guessing...

 

[john_john]

Your commutator is very dirty, but I am not qualified enough to say that it would be responsible, on it own, to make the buzzing noise.

My heat pump tumble dryer recently went down that path. I had a slight buzz- took the machine apart and used my hand to spin the drum. It then spun without issue. In my case it was the motor capacitor that had failed. Cost me a tenner for a generic replacement.

I cannot say that is your problem. With my tumble dryer, it would buzz but not spin without an inertial nudge, nevertheless that doesn't explain the tripping that you previously experienced. At a guess,, I would say that perhaps you had more than one failure. Again, I am only guessing...

The buzzing sound was short then stopped and it came from the dial area/pcb. **** man I was so close those brushes should have fixed it.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

ive also disconnected the heating element and it still did this behavior tripping t same point in cycle, so not the heater element,

As soon as water level is OK, the element is switched on and the drum rotated. Did you disconnect BOTH L and N from the element, to check if that was the cause of the trip?

If so, it seems likely it was the motor causing the trip. Carbon dust from the motor brushes, scattered around the brush holders, can cause the tripping. Brush or even better - blow the dust out, with compressed air.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

That commutator looks to be in need of at the very least skimming.

I also see that brush, in your second photo, is making contact with the comm, at a peculiar angle..

 

[john_john]

As soon as water level is OK, the element is switched on and the drum rotated. Did you disconnect BOTH L and N from the element, to check if that was the cause of the trip?

If so, it seems likely it was the motor causing the trip. Carbon dust from the motor brushes, scattered around the brush holders, can cause the tripping. Brush or even better - blow the dust out, with compressed air.

I took every connection off of the element then ran the washer it shorted out.

That commutator looks to be in need of at the very least skimming.

I also see that brush, in your second photo, is making contact with the comm, at a peculiar angle..

what wrong with the angle isn’t that the position it should be in? I replaced the brush from there in the same position. Would that cause the machine to not turn on and buzz then switch off?

 

[john_john]

Heater element are the wires right? I forgot to take a picture before disconnecting but the way they were all sitting, bent into place, from being hooked up before was still present.

 

[john_john]

Ok without doing anything other than checking all the connections again and they were the same as before, the power is back on and I just got a small shock from touching the frame is that normal? Ok I selected a program ran it the pre wash water came on then the main wash water started but only ran for a few seconds then switched itself off via the stop button then began to drain the water from the tub, so it didn’t even fill for a main wash like it would before and didn’t even get to the point that the drum would start turning, and it drained itself out.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

what wrong with the angle isn’t that the position it should be in? I replaced the brush from there in the same position.

I'm only judging from a blurry photo, but the carbon of the brush tip, appears not to be a good match to the comm..

The entire face of a carbon brush, should be in full contact with the comm..