I'm wondering just how much stuff I would need plugged into the sockets to create a fire risk.
You can't, provided the circuit is properly protected, e.g. a 2.5mm² ring final is OK on a 32A breaker because as mentioned earlier, each socket is supplied by two cables in parallel, so the load is shared between the cables. Not evenly, but it's reckoned that two 27A cables will be OK on a 32A breaker. One 2.5mm² cable, OTOH, is not safe on a 32A breaker, hence the advice if you no longer have a ring to drop it to a 20A one.
Any circuit from the smallest lighting one to one supplying a stonking shower to one running out to the garden for a sauna and hot-tub is designed with the same basic principle that the rating of the cable must be at least as high as the breaker or fuse (this keeps the cable safe) and the breaker or fuse must be at least as high as the design current for the circuit (this stops nuisance tripping). You can read more about that here:
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=81696#81696 and
http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.html goes into a lot more detail of cable ratings.
So if your socket circuit is soundly designed, the worst you can do is make the breaker trip or blow the fuse, you can't start a fire.
given that you may well do the house up over time(kitchen bathroom etc)
it would be a shame to have to rip it all out when it goes belly up.get it rewired and sleep sound
Sound advice, Rico - now is the time to do it - it will never be any easier or less disruptive or cheaper. If you can let the electrician loose in an empty house he can do the job quicker - no f@rting around restoring or maintaining power, replacing floorboards each night, moving furniture etc, and he can use power tools for sinking holes for boxes and for making chases, which aren't practical in occupied and furnished homes because of the obscene amounts of dust they make.
Think hard about where to have sockets - it's difficult to have too many, and also about what circuits to have. The items on the list below won't all apply to you, but they are worth thinking about:
- Upstairs sockets
- Downstairs sockets
- Kitchen sockets
- Radial for appliances
- Cooker circuit
- Non-RCD circuit for F/F
- Non-RCD circuit for CH boiler
- Dedicated circuit for hifi
- Dedicated circuit for IT equipment
- Upstairs lights
- Downstairs lights
- Immersion heater
- Loft lights
- Shower
- Bathroom circuit
- Alarm
- Supply for outside lights
- Supply for garden electrics
- Supply for shed/garage
Plus any peculiarities brought about by your house layout & construction - e.g. in mine because of solid floors and where the rings run, I have a radial just for a socket in the hall, the doorbell and the porch lights.
Plus a few spares on RCD & non-RCD sides for expansion beyond that for future unforeseen needs.
Consider also specifying a CU with separate sections, not a split-load, to increase the granularity of RCD protection, or the extensive use of RCBOs on a per-circuit basis.
Good idea to have all the wiring in the walls done in conduit for ease of future changes.
Do you want the place networked, for PC & peripheral LAN access and audio/video distribution?
If you live somewhere where supplies are dodgy in the winter, have the lights, the boiler supply, and a socket in each room wired to a separate CU, or a separate section in a large one, that can be supplied by an emergency generator - lights, heating, TV and a kettle/microwave make life a lot more bearable.