As per my tip about using a tin (metal heat shield) keep the joint contact-free of any other surface to avoid bridging... And be ultra fussy about cleaning away any residue flux after
Done and cooling. Just the flux to clean off (!) and a separator to put in to keep the pipes apart.
I found a bit of brass sheet in the garage and made a heat shield from it with my tin snips. The joint was so close to the joist, I ended up having to open up the hole a bit and extend the shield into it. If I'd known where the hole actually was in the pipe, I could have left a bit more pipe on to work with but that's life. At least I know its sound now. So great idea with chisels so long as you don't drop em. This set up was so much better than trying to use my solder mat.
There was just one last little present from the builders of the house. Had to remove the pipe support (multi-tool saved the day yet again as it's easy to hack through nails...) to get enough movement in the pipes to assemble - only to find some numpty had used an oversize countersunk screw in one clip (mains cold!) and a large dome head screw in one of the others. So you can see circled in the photo two more potential holes already wearing through, and you can see the marks on the screws where they have been rubbing. They don't look like they are deep enough to cause a problem when the screws have been replaced, but I'm just about to put a couple of click fix patches on just to make certain.
you would be surprised just how aggressive flux can be,dont see as much now with PE being used for most jobs but used to see it all the time , its my pet hate to see verdigris all over joints when all it takes is a second to wipe clean once the joint has cooled
....and then the builder goes and emulsions over the pipe/flux, leaving scabby green blisters and peeling paint later on! Ahhh the good old days
Thanks for everyone's comments.
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