Cable failure or me?

As an industry we are not allowed to prove live or dead other than with a two terminal test lamp (click here). Even the use of a meter is not permitted
That makes sense, for the reasons I just mentioned, and I certainly have one in my toolbox. However, for domestic work when a circuit has been 'isolated' just by interrupting the line conductor with a SP MCB, a lamp cannot be used for a N-E check if the circuit is RCD protected - presumably not an issue for DNO work.

Kind Regards, John
 
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presumably not an issue for DNO work.


You'd be surprised!
Actually the Drummond Lamps have a current level of about 3.5 mA so can be used on RCD protected circuits. The later version of the LED is however fitted with additional equipment to prevent phantom voltages appearing, read the spec. An issue we found on a couple of jobs. (we only had to dig a few of extra holes as a result)
 
presumably not an issue for DNO work.
You'd be surprised! Actually the Drummond Lamps have a current level of about 3.5 mA so can be used on RCD protected circuits.
Ah - there are (or were) clearly 'Drummond Lamps' and 'Drummond Lamps'! Mine has a 15W 250V incandescent lamp/bulb (like this) - i.e. 60mA at 250V.

How bright do these modern ones get at 3.5mA (I presume LEDs?)??

Kind Regards, John
 
Now to this length of brown wire. ALL cables must be double insulated. You must not run a length of conductor that is only protected by its single layer of insulation. It has to be double insulated (ie inside an outer sheath too.)
No cable is double insulated. They are insulated and sheathed, with the sheath providing mechanical protection. (It is not rated for its insulation properties.)

It is not correct that all cables must be insulated and sheathed either. (Otherwise why would singles be manufactured.) But there must be mechanical protection for all cables.
 
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It is not correct that all cables must be insulated and sheathed either. (Otherwise why would singles be manufactured.) But there must be mechanical protection for all cables.

Yes, but the OP has not run the conductor inside a conduit, or other regular protection method, he has just taped it to the outside of the other cable.

He has installed a conductor that is just insulated, it is not inside a sheath.

All rather pointless, as I rather suspect that there was never anything wrong with the original cable.
 
Do you need a battery to test for voltage?
You do if you're using a standard digital multimeter,....
I don't think you need to restrict that to "standard" digital multimeters. I can't see how any sort of digital meter could function without a battery of some sort (or a mains supply, if it were a bench instrument) - something has to power the electronics and display!
... that's one of the reasons they're frowned upon as a means of testing for dead.
AFAIAA, the same is true of most/all of the "two pole testers" advocated for 'testing for dead', isn't it? - again, if they have any electronics or a display they must have a power source (other thgan the voltage being measured). Only truly passive (moving coil or moving iron etc.) analogue meters could measure voltage without a battery (or mains supply) - and only us oldies are likely to have one of those :) Lamps (or LED equivalents) are another passive option, but they don't give a 'measurement' (LED ones may give a vague idea of voltage range).

Kind Regards, John

Yes, although my Fluke T110 two pole voltage/continuity tester (and all the current Txxx range) has a secondary passive indicator in addition to the bargraph (LCD on the more expensive ones) and will still indicate the presence of a voltage >50v AC, although admittedly not measure it's value, with the batteries removed.
I'm not sure if I count as an oldie (still under 40) but I do have a working AVO 8 analogue meter in the shed!
 
Yes, although my Fluke T110 two pole voltage/continuity tester (and all the current Txxx range) has a secondary passive indicator in addition to the bargraph (LCD on the more expensive ones) and will still indicate the presence of a voltage >50v AC, although admittedly not measure it's value, with the batteries removed.
That's reassuring to know.
I'm not sure if I count as an oldie (still under 40) but I do have a working AVO 8 analogue meter in the shed!
I'm a lot more of an oldie than you, which is probably why I still have a goodly collection of (mainly still working) moving-coil analogue multimeters, including a couple of AVO Multiminors, which I still use. I also have a 'wind-up' real Megger somewhere, too!

Kind Regards, John
 
Do you need a battery to test for voltage?
You do if you're using a standard digital multimeter,....
I don't think you need to restrict that to "standard" digital multimeters. I can't see how any sort of digital meter could function without a battery of some sort (or a mains supply, if it were a bench instrument) - something has to power the electronics and display!
... that's one of the reasons they're frowned upon as a means of testing for dead.
AFAIAA, the same is true of most/all of the "two pole testers" advocated for 'testing for dead', isn't it? - again, if they have any electronics or a display they must have a power source (other thgan the voltage being measured). Only truly passive (moving coil or moving iron etc.) analogue meters could measure voltage without a battery (or mains supply) - and only us oldies are likely to have one of those :) Lamps (or LED equivalents) are another passive option, but they don't give a 'measurement' (LED ones may give a vague idea of voltage range).

Kind Regards, John

Yes, although my Fluke T110 two pole voltage/continuity tester (and all the current Txxx range) has a secondary passive indicator in addition to the bargraph (LCD on the more expensive ones) and will still indicate the presence of a voltage >50v AC, although admittedly not measure it's value, with the batteries removed.
I'm not sure if I count as an oldie (still under 40) but I do have a working AVO 8 analogue meter in the shed!

Yep my flukes do the same as I found out just yesterday. Tested a circuit and the 'live' indicator lit but nothing else. Tried the self test mode to find the batteries completely dead. They are the testers I use for proving dead several times every day, and carried with me on every job as one of my basic hand tools.
 
My Seaward (LED ladder indication) works normally for voltage tests without any batteries - it's only continuity that needs the batteries.
 
My Seaward (LED ladder indication) works normally for voltage tests without any batteries - it's only continuity that needs the batteries.
It's reassuring to hear that most of these 'voltage testers' do work, to at least some extent, in the absence of batteries. However, I would remind you all that discussion was started by a comment about multimeters - and there is no way that a a digital hand-held multimeter can measure/display anything in the absence of batteries (unless it has a built in 'passive' voltage detection display - but I can't recall ever having seen one which does).

Kind Regards, John
 
Mine has a 15W 250V incandescent lamp/bulb (like this) - i.e. 60mA at 250V.

What was good about them is you can put them across the fuse holder, or open mcb and determine if there is a load or any substantial fault on a circuit, BEFORE energising.
Modern electricians with there fancy led testers dont appreciate this, im sure thats why there so popular with DNOs, after isolating your main switch, they can instantly see load clear, energise there stuff and leave rest to the client.
Similar with the other martindale version, a cable with poor insulation resistance often shows as aprox 50 volts, giving you a heads up on the circuit.
 
Mine has a 15W 250V incandescent lamp/bulb (like this) - i.e. 60mA at 250V.
What was good about them is you can put them across the fuse holder, or open mcb and determine if there is a load or any substantial fault on a circuit, BEFORE energising.
Indeed - and I'm still known to do that sometimes! It's really only the RCD issue which detracts a bit from their general usefulness.

Kind Regards, John
 
Only ever see Dno use them and as you infer there work dont usely affect any Rcd tripping.
I once had a Vibrating solenoid tester and used it specifically at sockets for tripping rcds intentionally as a quick way of finding supplys in pubs with about 3 or more unlabelled rcd supplied boards.
I also recall a former employee who found faults by putting a tungsten lamp in series at the board and seing what lamps glowed and measuring voltages
 

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