Can I run (Extra-) low voltage thermostat cable alongside 240 volt cable (Ed.)

[ericmark]

EPH Combi pack CP4 on the grounds of simplicity and the fact that it uses Opentherm.

I am just pointing out Wiser also used OpenTherm.

I have never used OpenTherm, I believe the on/off works the motorised valve and OpenTherm direct to boiler, but never tried it.

 

[Mr.B]

The Ideal area engineer (26 years with Ideal!) who called said, in connection with Halo Interface cables touching mains cables, that he was aware that Ideal Technical do stipulate they musy be kept apart - but he had never seen anyone have a problem with it if they did. And given hisexperience I would have taken his word for it, however I have separated the cales now and am waiting for the installer to send a fella round to move the Interface as described above.

I sense that the DIYNOT community isn't waiting with bated breath for the outcome of this gripping scenario but will post the outcome anyway when an outcome is indeed upon us.

 

[Mr.B]

I just stumbled across this topic from 2017 which seems to address the issue at hand. A mix of answers with the last one being an advisory to separate the cables.

I'm pleased that I have now done so and am now duly educated on the matter. The installer isn't coming to move the Halo Interface for another fortnight so the suspense continues.

Data and power in the same flex to a boiler.

Hi there. I'm a heating guy with a question for you sparks out there: My question is regarding the situation where the 20v DC ebus data pair to a boiler is in the same 5 core flex supplying the 230v AC to the boiler. I know this can cause control problems due to induced voltages causing data...

www.diynot.com

 

[ericmark]

Additionally, the Halo is sending data down the cable, as well as power.

The same applies to Nest Gen 3, I use a triple and earth cable, and seems to be no problems.

You've lost me there, ericmark. Am I missing something? Help me out.

Wiser and a lot more use a universal mounting plate.

Some makes only use one and two channel, and same plate also used for programmers and thermostats, and the opentherm is a add on module which comes with the wiser anyway. The hub can connect to TRV's, wall/free-standing thermostats or both, it relays information to the boiler, from the TRV or thermostat.

Bluestacks 5 is designed to run phone and tablet stuff from a PC, I get this far then it fails, well until today, ran it again to get the screen shots and it has actually worked. it has never worked before, so yes can set temperature from the PC.

My Nest Gen 3 was on paper the best option, but in real life a bit of a failure. But still have it so I can use boiler for domestic hot water (DHW) when required. The Wiser would not work my DHW, due to my running a C Plan. Hive has a software work around. And Nest has volt free contacts and you can wire out of the com terminal, but since you it seems are not using C Plan you can forget about that.

Wiser and Hive single channel can run volt free, two and three channel have to be low voltage, in the UK that means 230 volt, USA for some reason known only to them, do not use the international standards organisation definition of low voltage, we call 12 and 24 volt extra low voltage, they don't it seems, so if you read USA stuff, you must be aware, of their odd English, boot is a trunk etc.

 

[Mr.B]

Finale.

Installer came and moved the Interface unit from the boiler and installed it in the purpose made Ideal Housing/Bracket in the airing cupboard.
The Interface and the Halo wall mounted stat are almost in direct line of sight. One at the top of the stairs and the other in the hall downstairs. No brick walls nothing other than a bit of plasterboard and some structural timbe that supports the first floor. Distance of a few metres.

Despite that the red LED in the Halo wall stat (which warns of a poor signal between the two components) is regularly displayed.

If you take the Halo wall stat and stand a few feet from the airing cupboard door then the signal is great. Yippee.

There's just one spot in the hall where you get a green LED so that's where the wall stat is now fixed.

Neither IDEAL head office nor their area engineer nor the installer has a solution or explanation.

It's unlikely I would buy another Halo control system.

 

[opps]

Not much in the way of responses. To be honest that seems to be par for the course for most of my threads. They're obviously pretty darn boring.

I'd move this to the electrical section if I could, but I can't see how.

Mate, I was born boring

 

[dilalio]

Mate, I was born boring

Zzzzzzz!

 

[Mr.B]

I think I can safely say this topic has reached the end of the road. To be honest it never really got off the ground anyway.

The repositioned Halo Interface and repositioned Halo wall stat are now just about corresponding with each other to a point where the system actually works (as is shown by a, now, constant green LED on the wall stat display) ..... albeit there's only one place downstairs where it'll do that.... which is a pretty poor show given they're only a few metres apart and there's now no 9" wall that can be used as an excuse.

And I separated the 240v from the 24volt cables so that can't be used as an excuse either.

But it does work and I hope that remains the case otherwise it'll get taken out and replaced with an EPH CP4 replacement.

 

[dilalio]

I think I can safely say this topic has reached the end of the road. To be honest it never really got off the ground anyway.

Runway?