Can I use a vailant combi boiler for hot water when the radiators are disconnected?

I expect that Vaillant noticed me posting saying that I used their boilers without problems with no CH connected and realised that was a safe thing to do and incorporated

Come down to earth fella. Some of the gaffs you have posted recently, does not qualify you to make above statement:cautious:

Can the Bunnies corroborate mr Glazier statement?
 
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Intergas require an electrolytic or polyphosphate water conditioner on the inlet.

Members of the IG Installer's Club set the CH to a maximum of around 60 C to ensure they have no problems.

Of course those who don't take an interest in boilers leave them at the manufacturer's default setting of 80 C and may get problems in harder water areas.

A little knowledge goes a long way.

I expect that Vaillant noticed me posting saying that I used their boilers without problems with no CH connected and realised that was a safe thing to do and incorporated it into their MI.

Tony
You on that wacky baccy again Tony??
Good job you don't mind heights cos that pedestal you put yourself on must be fookin high..
Sort yourself out and get back to the real world.
It must be a great feeling knowing that Vaillant read your input within this forum , the icing on the cake being they take heed of what you say...:)
As my old man used to say ....."lad , self praise is no praise"...
 
Intergas require an electrolytic or polyphosphate water conditioner on the inlet.

Members of the IG Installer's Club set the CH to a maximum of around 60 C to ensure they have no problems.

Of course those who don't take an interest in boilers leave them at the manufacturer's default setting of 80 C and may get problems in harder water areas.

A little knowledge goes a long way.

I expect that Vaillant noticed me posting saying that I used their boilers without problems with no CH connected and realised that was a safe thing to do and incorporated it into their MI.

Tony
Please tell me that you forgot to attach a smilie to that post??....surely even you couldn't be so brazen as to believe it????..don't answer..:ROFLMAO:
Spend a bit of time with some of the "proper" guys on here ...will certainly be an eye opener for you..;)
It's all in the posts and the way it's written , not too difficult to tell a wannabe from a proffesional.;)
 
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Ffs it's fine proper installers do it all the while, Tony you are a twit with an A , you know nothing and have the heating experience of a child
 
, Tony you are a twit with an A , you know nothing and have the heating experience of a child
Yes Bunny we know that .....tis a pity the open forum don't see through his BS and hierarchy.....;)
....although he talks a good story as far as the untrained are concerned.....:)
 
Bring back the Response. :D
Twin pass main hex and no diverter or plate. Just the granddaddy of an Intergas:ROFLMAO:
Water used to take yer skin off if the heating had been on and you turned on a tap. ;)
 
Got one of them I installed 13 years ago playing up at the moment.... Flashing hot water led, intermittent failure to respond (arf) to hot water demand. Can't decide if it's the PCB or flow switch.


Changed the sensor which has stopped the Flashing led at least.
 
I called Valiant who confirmed that I can switch off the heating in the boiler timer and cap the radiator pipes. If I do that then I can have hot water only whilst the heating is disabled. I don't need a water feedback loop.
 
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Well its nice tou posted back, but you had that advice from the person who trained the person who trained the person that told you lol
 
I called Valiant who confirmed that I can switch off the heating in the boiler timer and cap the transistor pipes. If I do that using hot water only without a water feedback loop is fine.

Well its nice tou posted back, but you had that advice from the person who trained the person who trained the person that told you lol

some people just do not listen , when they ask for advice and get it and still don't listen:ROFLMAO:
 

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