Obviously.
Can I wire an induction hob onto the same circuit as a cooker.
- Thread starter jameswillo
- Start date
Obviously.
Sponsored Links
Not to you earlier, it would appear.
- Joined
- 24 Mar 2017
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
Thank you for everyone's help on this.
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
- Messages
- 24,925
- Reaction score
- 2,882
- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
- Country
Let me put it in simple terms, for years we could use a stand alone cooker with a 32A supply, that oven, grill and hot plates. The new ovens are better insulated than the old one so use less power on average, the induction hob is also more economic all heat goes into pan, non wasted heating the kitchen, so all in all a new cooker uses less power to cook the food than an old one, so if 32A was OK for last 50 years, then it is OK now as the cooker on average uses less power.
There seems to be among some the misconception that since an induction hob can use more power that it will use more power, but if you have 4 heating areas then you can only use 4 pans the only way you can use more power than before is to have 8 pans and keep swapping them around, this may happen in a commercial kitchen, but unlikely to happen at home. The induction hob is often set to auto boil then simmer this automated change means you in general use less power.
I still use the old Vesta dried ready meals, because of the automated control with an induction hob and the extra control offered (at least with one with knobs not silly touch controls) I find I need to use a lot less water to what the instructions say, mainly as it does not boil away like with old electric hob, even when I lift pan off the hob it auto switches off, again less power loss. We notice how much cooler the kitchen is because of the reduced power loss.
Unless more than 4 heat areas, then 32A is ample for oven and hob, it is average power we are looking at, not peak power when you turn everything on together, my induction stand alone cooker is rated at some where around 60 amp total, but manufacturer (Belling) still says use a 32A supply.
A watt is by definition a Joule per second, that time bit is important, we are looking at how much power is used over a set time, if instead of looking at a second we look at 15 minutes which is more reasonable as MCB's and fuses and the wire they protect take time to heat up and trip, then you will be looking at well under the point where trips, fuses, and cable will over heat, so 32A is fine. Even if something unexpected does happen then worse case is fuse ruptures or MCB trips so no problem.
There seems to be among some the misconception that since an induction hob can use more power that it will use more power, but if you have 4 heating areas then you can only use 4 pans the only way you can use more power than before is to have 8 pans and keep swapping them around, this may happen in a commercial kitchen, but unlikely to happen at home. The induction hob is often set to auto boil then simmer this automated change means you in general use less power.
I still use the old Vesta dried ready meals, because of the automated control with an induction hob and the extra control offered (at least with one with knobs not silly touch controls) I find I need to use a lot less water to what the instructions say, mainly as it does not boil away like with old electric hob, even when I lift pan off the hob it auto switches off, again less power loss. We notice how much cooler the kitchen is because of the reduced power loss.
Unless more than 4 heat areas, then 32A is ample for oven and hob, it is average power we are looking at, not peak power when you turn everything on together, my induction stand alone cooker is rated at some where around 60 amp total, but manufacturer (Belling) still says use a 32A supply.
A watt is by definition a Joule per second, that time bit is important, we are looking at how much power is used over a set time, if instead of looking at a second we look at 15 minutes which is more reasonable as MCB's and fuses and the wire they protect take time to heat up and trip, then you will be looking at well under the point where trips, fuses, and cable will over heat, so 32A is fine. Even if something unexpected does happen then worse case is fuse ruptures or MCB trips so no problem.
Sponsored Links
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
- Messages
- 24,925
- Reaction score
- 2,882
- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
- Country
Oh that is a blast from the past Angel Delight. It really does annoy me that although we can freeze dry many meals so they last for years without the need to use power to keep them at -18°C so few shops stock them, but I have limited freezer space, and ready meals are last resort, I don't want to fill the freezer with emergency food.
But back to the power needed for a cooker, I found although we have a boost on the induction hob, it is only good to boil water with, it is far too much heat for any thing but boiling water. So although you may have a heat area rated at 3.7 kW in real terms maximum useable is 1.85 kW and most of the time half of that is ample so looking at around 1 kW for what is actually used with a heat area so total is around 4 kW a little too much for a 13A plug, but well under what a 32A outlet can provide. The oven also uses less power, door closed most ovens are up to temperature in around 20 minutes and after that point it is only replacing heat lost, so cooking the Christmas Turkey then once up to temperature likely using around 750 W or less to maintain temperature.
It would be interesting to clamp the power usage meter I have on the cooker circuit and see what we use. However we have deep fat frier, and a stand alone pressure cooker and other plug in cooking devices, even a microwave, so out Christmas cooking is spread out over many units, add to that children have left home. So not really a good house to select to measure.
One question I keep asking is why our pans are not insulated? OK frying pan get too hot, but the whole reason why the stand alone pressure cooker uses less power than the one sitting on the cooker is the insulation used with the stand alone one. With an induction hob there is no reason why we should not have insulated pans or pan covers, the pan does not any longer get that hot.
But back to the power needed for a cooker, I found although we have a boost on the induction hob, it is only good to boil water with, it is far too much heat for any thing but boiling water. So although you may have a heat area rated at 3.7 kW in real terms maximum useable is 1.85 kW and most of the time half of that is ample so looking at around 1 kW for what is actually used with a heat area so total is around 4 kW a little too much for a 13A plug, but well under what a 32A outlet can provide. The oven also uses less power, door closed most ovens are up to temperature in around 20 minutes and after that point it is only replacing heat lost, so cooking the Christmas Turkey then once up to temperature likely using around 750 W or less to maintain temperature.
It would be interesting to clamp the power usage meter I have on the cooker circuit and see what we use. However we have deep fat frier, and a stand alone pressure cooker and other plug in cooking devices, even a microwave, so out Christmas cooking is spread out over many units, add to that children have left home. So not really a good house to select to measure.
One question I keep asking is why our pans are not insulated? OK frying pan get too hot, but the whole reason why the stand alone pressure cooker uses less power than the one sitting on the cooker is the insulation used with the stand alone one. With an induction hob there is no reason why we should not have insulated pans or pan covers, the pan does not any longer get that hot.
- Joined
- 17 Aug 2010
- Messages
- 2,869
- Reaction score
- 497
- Country
Why oh why didn't they bring back Vesta Beef Chop Suey. Got me through university. Oh, sorry, off topic!
Get a teapot and cosy.
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
- Messages
- 24,925
- Reaction score
- 2,882
- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
- Country
Lidi are doing a kettle at the moment with keep warm function, you can set the temperature I think between 40 and 90°C but no insulation.
Look at camping supply shops, and companies who serve the emergency preparedness market. That's much bigger in the US, and you can in one go buy a whole year's worth of food, but there are companies here who offer similar products.
From what I've read avoid military MREs (which apparently stands for Meals Rejected by Everyone, or Meals, Rarely Edible). "Three lies for the price of one - it's not a meal, it's not ready, and you can't eat it."
When you read that not even a dog will eat it, you do start to wonder...
What sort of emergency provision are you looking to make - to cover what situations? Snowed in? Dose of flu? Terrorist NBC interdiction? The End Of Civilisation As We Know It?
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
