Candy CDI 1012 "pulsing" problem

[DarioM]

Checked heater resistance - no luck

around 28 Ohms - i guess it is not significantly different to be classified as an non functioning heater.

this was my last hope to salvage my dishwasher (new heater is around 15 GBP - amount i would risk to repair...), it seems that it is electronic module after all, and i think that 100 GBP is too much to invest in used Candy dishwasher...i'll rather add another 120 and buy new one with 2 year warranty!

This is goodbye from me on this topic, my CDI 1012 is going to trash.

Best luck to you Alan, hope you'll have better luck than me

 

[alanf142]

Hello Dario

Sorry to hear you also are still having problems. I agree, if it comes to the fault being down to the electronics module, I will not be spending 120GBP to replace it (as you say, with no guarantee). Certainly, the resistance reading of the heater element sounds 'within tolerance' which does point to the module. Only a thought, I wonder if the thermostat is 'stuck' (don't know how it works!) and telling the module it's hot(ter) than it is...

As I said, with my machine, it certainly heats up enough to get the dishes clean (the P3 cycle is rated at 45degC) but I think it gives up at the point where it should be doing a drying operation, so it gives up, doesn't pump out the final rinse water and reports an error. Having read that description, I'm not sure it makes sense

My dilemma is that I like the way this machine works (or at least used to!) and I suppose almost 8 years isn't a bad service life - or is it??!! - I've had trouble earlier with other makes, Hotpoint for example

The problem is, although it seems to be still in production - quite a lot of online vendors in UK, it doesn't seem to be available here in France. I've decided to carry on using it (I can get it to pump out by starting a new P3 cycle and then switching it off) until it either gets better or worse

... or until Zipper comes up with an answer to our prayers (if it isn't too late for you!!)...

Kind regards, Alan

 

[FoghornLeghorn]

Dario I may be too late here to help you but thought I'd try. If you haven't already binned the CDI 1012 then try checking the safety switch. It's situated underneath just in front of the heater element connections. If it's faulty then it will not allow the heater to work. I've just renewed my 2nd one in 3 years (along with the third PCB and first set of pressure switches).

It's a completely flawed design, in my opinion, as the full current to the heater goes through the switch so failure is inevitable unless there's perfect contact in there.

I fear I may be too late as your last post was 5 weeks ago but we'll see.

FH

 

[alanf142]

Another month's water under the bridge (or down the drain) but just an update from me... my CDI 1012 has settled down into a 'faulty but usable' state. On an eco wash (program 3) it goes through the whole cycle but falls at the last hurdle, which I think is the final 'heat to dry and then pump out'. The no.3 LED is flashing fast indicating a fault but the dishes are perfectly clean although not quite dry. All I do is switch off and then on again, press the no.3 button and close the door; the pump then empties the remaining water from the tray. Then I switch off and it's ready for the next use. The error code (8 flashes) I seem to remember indicates a heater problem, so maybe it isn't getting hot enough for the drying cycle? (thermostat problem??).

Whilst the CDI 1012 is still advertised for sale in the UK, I can't find it anywhere here in France. However, at then end of December, BricoDepot (big DIY chain owned by B&Q) were selling the CDI 3013 for just 249 euros so I went and had a look. Apart from a couple of new buttons on the control panel for 'départ differée' (delay timer, useful here where the nighttime electricity tariff is half the price of the daytime) I couldn't see any difference whatsoever from the 1012. Darty (Curry's France) sell the 3013 for 399 euros. BricoDepot's 299 euros was such a good price that I bought one.

The new machine is still sitting in its box and will probably stay there until either I summon up the energy to install it, or the 1012 finally expires, whichever comes first!

Bonne Année à tous/Happy New Year to all, Alan

 

[SirWolf]

To anyone, who still might have the same dishwasher with the same problem, here is a solution:

Hi guys,
my old CDI 1012 had the same problem recently.
The fault is on the mainboard (aka PCB, controller board...) - the power supply voltage (24 V DC and 5 V DC) drops significantly during the program, to 18 V / 3V or something like this. The power supply part of the circuit is rather strange, so I'm not sure what exactly is wrong and I do not intend to examine it further, because I have found a quick and dirty solution .

Anyway, the undervoltage causes two things:
The heater element is switched on by a 24V relay. The relay cannot work properly with a lower voltage, that's why DarioM's heater didn't work.
And the main CPU is connected to a reset circuit, which ensures, that after power-on, the CPU is switched on with a delay, after the voltage is proper and stable. But when the 5V rail drops to 3V, the reset circuit resets the CPU. For a while (without any load) the voltage returns to 5V, but then it drops back to 3V and this repeats again and again. This is the reason why the (circulation?) motor is "pulsing".

My solution is very dirty, but it works. I connected an external 24 V power suply (salvaged from a notebook) to the mainboard. The 24V positive lead goes to positive lead of C1 capacitor and the negative to negative lead of C2 capacitor. The capacitors are marked on the PCB. The AC input of my external powersupply is connected to pads of a dishwashers' main on/off switch.
The dishwasher works again!