Cannon Cooker problem
- Thread starter VRXV8
- Start date
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This looks a useful thread for the future.
Any chance you could a diagram ?
.
A good site to add pic is imageshack.com
Dunno if this will help anyone else or not, 'cos I feel pretty stupid. 
My problem was, that the clock had some how got 'auto' flashing down the right hand side, which meant the oven would not light.
I couldn't see this at first, as the whole cooker had been steam cleaned and water vapour had got in behind the glass obscurring the clock.
Do I feel daft.
Oh well off to bake apple and oat cakes now.
My problem was, that the clock had some how got 'auto' flashing down the right hand side, which meant the oven would not light.
I couldn't see this at first, as the whole cooker had been steam cleaned and water vapour had got in behind the glass obscurring the clock.
Do I feel daft.
Oh well off to bake apple and oat cakes now.
People.
If your oven burner flame stays low,it is almost certainly either the F.S.D.that is faulty or the burner is choked where the F.S.D. probe passes over the burner.
If your oven burner flame stays high and burns everything it is almost certainly either the Thermostat which is faulty or the oven door seal is.
If you have the type of cooker where you have to hold in the knob untill the flame has been on for about 10 seconds and the flame goes out when the knob is released.It is the Thermocouple or thermo-electric valve which is faulty.
If the ignition keeps on sparking to any burner after it is lit,it could be just a bit of debris between the electrode and the burner(which is easily checked) or it will be the spark generator.
If the ignition keeps sparking it is either a stuck/faulty ignition micro-switch or a faulty spark generator.
99% of the time these are the causes of these faults and apart from checking for debris on the burners they all need a Gas Safe Registered Engineer to fix them.
If your oven burner flame stays low,it is almost certainly either the F.S.D.that is faulty or the burner is choked where the F.S.D. probe passes over the burner.
If your oven burner flame stays high and burns everything it is almost certainly either the Thermostat which is faulty or the oven door seal is.
If you have the type of cooker where you have to hold in the knob untill the flame has been on for about 10 seconds and the flame goes out when the knob is released.It is the Thermocouple or thermo-electric valve which is faulty.
If the ignition keeps on sparking to any burner after it is lit,it could be just a bit of debris between the electrode and the burner(which is easily checked) or it will be the spark generator.
If the ignition keeps sparking it is either a stuck/faulty ignition micro-switch or a faulty spark generator.
99% of the time these are the causes of these faults and apart from checking for debris on the burners they all need a Gas Safe Registered Engineer to fix them.
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Hi, I've isolated a flame failure in the top oven (Chesterfield) to a build-up of carbon on the flame failure finger. It gets quite a thick layer after approximately 2 hours of cooking, and from then on the flame will not stay lit when igniting from cold, or goes out erratically during cooking.
If I wipe the carbon off, the oven operates correctly until the layer builds-up again.
What is causing this to happen, and how can I avoid the problem?
Is it a gas quality problem? I use propane gas.
Thanks for any advice.
If I wipe the carbon off, the oven operates correctly until the layer builds-up again.
What is causing this to happen, and how can I avoid the problem?
Is it a gas quality problem? I use propane gas.
Thanks for any advice.
It sounds like the burner or air inlet to the burner may be partially choked,this will cause incomplete combustion,yellow wavy flames and will lead to a sooty build up on the rectification probe.You`ll need a gas Gas Safe registered engineer with the relevant qualifications to take it apart.
as macfudd said you need gas safe engineer to sort it
E
expertgasman
I think this post UNDERSTATES the need for an RGI. it is not just an inconvenience, it is potentially dangerous. Get an RGI (with appropiate ticket) NOW.
The problem is not that you would not be able to do it.
Its that you dont have the test equipment or the training to be able to identify a dangerous situation.
We dont give DIY gas advice on this forum for reasons which will be obvious to most people!
Tony
Its that you dont have the test equipment or the training to be able to identify a dangerous situation.
We dont give DIY gas advice on this forum for reasons which will be obvious to most people!
Tony
Hi again.
I've had a good look at the flame on the burner, and there is some slight yellowing colour in the main body of the flame, but in the region of the flame failure device, I see jets of pure blue flames jetting from the individual burner holes. I observed this using a mirror to see around a pressed steel guard that is in front of the burner.
So I'm still unaware of the cause.
I'm wondering if the propane gas could be at fault.
cheers.
I've had a good look at the flame on the burner, and there is some slight yellowing colour in the main body of the flame, but in the region of the flame failure device, I see jets of pure blue flames jetting from the individual burner holes. I observed this using a mirror to see around a pressed steel guard that is in front of the burner.
So I'm still unaware of the cause.
I'm wondering if the propane gas could be at fault.
cheers.
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You seem beyond help - more likely a banned member eh? We are not going to give you advice on how to repair your customers cooker (or even your own) - forum rules I am afraid.
If you were legit, you would have taken the advice given by now and not keep bothering us with scenarios we cannot comment on. Jog on.
Good luck.
What a strange reply. I am not a gas engineer, I am a software developer, so it is not a customer's cooker, it is my own.
I was just trying to seek some help.
I have taken some photos of the flame but cannot yet work out how to show them.
I was just trying to seek some help.
I have taken some photos of the flame but cannot yet work out how to show them.
Does this work?
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a359/nickpike/P1080048.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a359/nickpike/P1080046.jpg
Just a couple of pictures that may help show the problem. By now the flame failure device is coated with carbon.
One shows the arrangement without a flame and one with the flame.
This is not a professional call for help, it's just an odd problem I cannot find an explanation for.
Cheers.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a359/nickpike/P1080048.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a359/nickpike/P1080046.jpg
Just a couple of pictures that may help show the problem. By now the flame failure device is coated with carbon.
One shows the arrangement without a flame and one with the flame.
This is not a professional call for help, it's just an odd problem I cannot find an explanation for.
Cheers.
- Joined
- 2 Oct 2010
- Messages
- 3,624
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- 667
- Country
You have been given help - get an RGI. You have not listened to this help have you - you still bleating on about the flame picture. We cannot give you advice on combustion here - its against forum rules. You stick to your software, and let an engineer deal with your cooker. You are out of your depth here - even though (as you deal with software) you think you can deal with your problem.
As you think its maybe a propane problem, explain why. What do you think is going wrong?
Mr. W.
As you think its maybe a propane problem, explain why. What do you think is going wrong?
Mr. W.
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