CEILING IS LATH AND PLASTER, REPLACE WITH OVERBOARD??

[peaps]

If you are going to render it then I would use lime. I come from Yorkshire and did much of my training on old stone builds Done a few houses around greenhead park, marsden, honley etc. You can Kingspan it but it would be advisable to insert small vents to help the wall breath.

Problem we face these days is that people want to keep there house warm, gone are the days when you can keep all your open fires roaring and central heating comes with it's own problems, condensation is one of them because they seal the house from draft. Coupled with cold external walls and no air flow you get condensation problems.

Catch 22 situation but you CAN use modern methods if done correctly but you can't but gypsum based products directly onto stone and not expect problem down the line.

i live in marsden, and the house im doing is on manchester road in linthwaite. I wouldnt use gypsum on stone, but when you say vents, where would you put them? so you can still see them once you have boarded it? the plan i have is the gap between the old and new wall, i intend to leave a gap in the ceiling, so there will be an inch or so gap so the air in the loft ( there are vents) comes down behind the new wall.

The reason I wanted to render it was to stop the penetraiting damp coming in....the render is only for this purpose, so what mix would you use?

Ah do you drink in the Sair? Will reply in a whie o some chickens to sort out.

 

[peaps]

If you are going to vent from the loft space you will need to insulate the wall to stop cold air entering the wall void. Use a beathable insulation, I use sheeps wool. If you don't insulate you will have a cold wall and still condensation.

As for the render, well I would investigate the sourse of the damp then lime render it after you have sorted the damp problem out. If it is rising damp you can insert slate around 150/200mm depending on the build.

I have a damp problem in the cottage. It's built directly onto clay with no foundations. Modern damp proof methods won't do the job as it will seals moisture rather than allowing the building to breath. It's not a simple fix beacuse the property was built then extended in three different periods with different construction methods. It was added to in c16, c17, c19 and c20 but it was done by farm hands!!! It dates back to late 1400s.

The ground drainage was the main problem we found but we had to put a slate damp proof layer in as well as lime render the internal walls, it's a very exposed detached cottage so every wall needed doing.

It all depends on the build and construction methods but as a rule, a house that is built with lime is a house that needs to breath and if you seal it you will have proplems.

 

[huddsspread]

Yea I understand that,just wanted to know about the lime mix to stop the penetrating damp,what mix would you use?


And no I don't go in the sair.....

 

[peaps]

Yea I understand that,just wanted to know about the lime mix to stop the penetrating damp,what mix would you use?


And no I don't go in the sair.....

Sair have some mean home brew!!!!

You will be able to use NHL 3.5 at 4/1 for the scratch then 5/1 for the float. You can use thistle for the funish if you add some lime, it will weaken the finish but it will still be a strong as the old caritle finish. Failing that you can mix up a lime finish 3/1 with good clean fine sand.

 

[peaps]

http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/mythmix/mythmix.htm
http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/cement/cement.htm

 

[huddsspread]

Not that botheres about the finish,its just to stop penetrating damp,abd to let it breath.its gonna have a 2 inch gap then the stud wall with insulation.ill look at the lambs wool.thanks for this,really need to learn more about lime!

 

[peaps]

Not that botheres about the finish,its just to stop penetrating damp,abd to let it breath.its gonna have a 2 inch gap then the stud wall with insulation.ill look at the lambs wool.thanks for this,really need to learn more about lime!

Let me know when you are going to do it. I pop up that end regular could give you some tips, always better when you have the area infront of you

 

[peaps]

Have you looked to see if the stone has soaked all the way through? Stone is porous. I dry the wall out with a dehumidifier in these cases.

 

[huddsspread]

They have a humidifier, as the house is full of condense, and this is the main cause of the mould/damp. But there is definately penetrating damp. I've even phoned up a specialist company and spoke to them about it ( damp company ). If you saw the house you would see how the gable and front get smashed in the rain. The rooms are cold, and the heat form the house = condensation. As there is no cavity, she wants insulation somehow. So this is why i'm hacking off the old black lime, rendering it once with sand/cement/lime, just to stop the bit of penetrating damp. Then building a stud wall all around the room with an inch or twos gap between the back of the stud and the render, insulate with ( was kingspan but you suggest wool ) then board and skim. The rooms are huge so losing 4 inches around the perimeter wont matter. There young kids rooms and one has asthma so she wants them warm. As i said before i have had hardly any time with lime, i used it in sand and white cement when laying bricks years ago, as the building control said i had too, as it was a 16th century wooden barn....

Im thinking now it may not have to be rendered as the damp behind will dry hopefully as im making a 2 inch hole all the way around the room behind the studwall into the ceiling so the airflow from the loft goes behind the wall so it breathes, but i suppose render will help.

 

[peaps]

They have a humidifier, as the house is full of condense, and this is the main cause of the mould/damp. But there is definately penetrating damp. I've even phoned up a specialist company and spoke to them about it ( damp company ). If you saw the house you would see how the gable and front get smashed in the rain. The rooms are cold, and the heat form the house = condensation. As there is no cavity, she wants insulation somehow. So this is why i'm hacking off the old black lime, rendering it once with sand/cement/lime, just to stop the bit of penetrating damp. Then building a stud wall all around the room with an inch or twos gap between the back of the stud and the render, insulate with ( was kingspan but you suggest wool ) then board and skim. The rooms are huge so losing 4 inches around the perimeter wont matter. There young kids rooms and one has asthma so she wants them warm. As i said before i have had hardly any time with lime, i used it in sand and white cement when laying bricks years ago, as the building control said i had too, as it was a 16th century wooden barn....

Im thinking now it may not have to be rendered as the damp behind will dry hopefully as im making a 2 inch hole all the way around the room behind the studwall into the ceiling so the airflow from the loft goes behind the wall so it breathes, but i suppose render will help.

You are correct about not needing to render behind the stud. I would take off all the lime render though. Take care with the black death, keep a mask on and if she has a child with asthma then she needs to get rid of all the black damp!!!! Gypframe might be the way to go with this.

The gable end sounds like it could do with a rest from the rain!! It's a problem when it start to come through stone but NEVER seal it! I have known people to protect exposed walls by growing bushes etc but not always ideal.

If you ever did lime render you don't use the lime cement route.

 

[huddsspread]

If you ever did lime render you don't use the lime cement route.


yea i know, just ignore that i wrote cement. Once i get in there, well see how much its going to cost to do everything, and if its not needed we wont render it, try and save the lady money.


Cheers mate