Hang on peaps - it was YOU who suggested ringing BG rather than giving me a reason why PVA/bonding agents don't work, so it's a bit rich disregarding their tech info because it doesn't agree with you!
I've found time to finish off this post.
Hang on Micilin I have never said PVA doesn't work, would you care to point out that post? I suggested you ring BG to ask them what the best method would be to use, in other words, reboard or over skim and what is the expected life span. Maybe I leave too much down to assumption and this is why you are getting your knickers in a twist.
BG never did recomend PVA but now they have developed their own brand of bonders they recomend them, so BG do not recomend PVA ONLY their bonding agents. A sceptic would ask themselve what has changed, certainly not the plaster....
What is my 'stance' ? - I asked you to say why you would not over skim, specifics of why properly applied, an overskim will cause problems.
And I have told you over and over that PVA doesn't give me the lifespan I expect and so compromises quality.
Of course we agree it's all in the method - you could say any applikcation depends of it being done properly . But I am saying PVA applied properly to a sound substrate , in the right conditions will last a lifetime - the proof being it has already done so for over 20 years in my experience.. hardly a quick fix.......
But, but BG do not recomed anything other than their bonding products.... Sinking in yet?
(Now I do prefer SBR or Bond it than PVA because of the issues with moisture)
I wonder how many times I've said moisture was an issue with PVA..
Your quote here
There are so many things to go wrong when overskimming. Is the PVA correctly mix and applied ( you do know that BG develop their products in a lab enviroment do you not?) What state is the area to be overskimmed ie: is the paint still degrading etc... You applyPVA probably not mixed correctly skim take the cash and run. When The right job to do would be to rip it down, board and skim....
First off , it's easy to mix PVA the right strength, so lets discount that one - I am asking about it being properly applied.
So you say but reading around many diy forums and seeing how other plasterers work I have to disagree.
Secondly - is the paint degrading - again discount this as properly done, all unsuitable substrate would be removed. Also a physical key with sparrowpecking or scoring would be advisable with PVA
But in the real world you have to go far to find a plasterer who prepares the area correctly, thats why you find ceiling that have been overskimmed many times. Lets face it, if a plasterer can't put right a hole after a ceiling light has been moved he shouldn't be in the job.
Take the cash and run? You are setting up a straw man to knock down. Who is saying to the OP that the PVA should be done incorrectly?
You might have a point if it was one point I was addressing but since it isn't?
Plasterboard could be incorrectly screwed up, not enough fixings or screws going thru the paper - doesn't mean plasterboarding is rubbish, but the guy who applied it is.
But since BG don't recomend PVA with their products it would seem your straw man burt down in flames.
What would you do with a solid wall that needed reskimming. Would you advise hacking it all off, or sticking plasterboard on it?
answered this.
As for a quick fix - if someone told me
a) I can give you something that will last 20+ years (overskim)
or b) charge you extra, make a bigger mess and take longer (take down and overboard) but you won't tell the difference at the end of the day
Who is then looking like the guy interested in the cash.
I tell them I won't guarantee work undertaken that PVA was used.
To sum up -
sometimes better to rip down and start again
sometimes better to overboard
sometimes better to overskim
All done properly in the right context are options.
Yes options, options don't make them the right way to go.