celing fan switch question

[efiste2]

fitted a celing fan/light combo in my lads bedroom, a straight swap for the celing rose etc etc, the unit uses a remote control to switch the light on and the various speeds of the fan.
Obviously the the original light switch isolates the whole unit....however so the fan isnt running all night when has fallen asleep with it running, I was thing of putting a "push to switch on timer" unit in parallel with the main light switch switch so when the main switch is off he can push the timer switch in and the fan will only operate for the preset time....
Aside from the obvious isolation hazard (ie the 2 ways of energising the fan/light) do you learned chaps reckon this will work.

I already have a push timer set at 20 mins on the fan in the main bedroom, but its not in parallel with the light switch, as the fan is standalone fan without a light, and the timer works perfectly.

 

[JohnW2]

Obviously the the original light switch isolates the whole unit....however so the fan isnt running all night when has fallen asleep with it running, I was thing of putting a "push to switch on timer" unit in parallel with the main light switch switch so when the main switch is off he can push the timer switch in and the fan will only operate for the preset time.... Aside from the obvious isolation hazard (ie the 2 ways of energising the fan/light) do you learned chaps reckon this will work.

As for the isolation ('2 ways of energising') issue is concerned, although not very 'tidy', you could overcome that by having an additional 'main main switch' ('isolator') before (or even after) the main switch and time switch (the latter two in parallel). In that way, the 'main main switch' would isolate the fan/light, regardless of what the other two switches were doing.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Or you could isolate for maintenance in the usual way, and not have to worry about the switches.

 

[JohnW2]

Or you could isolate for maintenance in the usual way, and not have to worry about the switches.

Indeed so, but the OP seemed to be concerned about it, so I proposed one possible solution. Mind you, having a local 'isolator' might not be such a bad idea in this particular case, because people tend to just switch of the switch, rather than 'isolate for maintenance in the usual way' when they replace lamps - and it's just possible that, even if the conventional switch was 'off', the lamp socket could be live because of the 'timer switch'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[efiste2]

great advice thanks, what about the parallel circuit theory, as in the circuit working correctly and safely ?

 

[JohnW2]

great advice thanks, what about the parallel circuit theory, as in the circuit working correctly and safely ?

No problem I can think of, beyond the issue you mentioned, and we have been discussing.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Mind you, having a local 'isolator' might not be such a bad idea in this particular case, because people tend to just switch of the switch, rather than 'isolate for maintenance in the usual way' when they replace lamps - and it's just possible that, even if the conventional switch was 'off', the lamp socket could be live because of the 'timer switch'.

If you're changing a lamp in a light with n-way switching, it's just possible that, even if it's off at the start, it could become live via the operation of a switch remote from your location. Or was already live - broken lamp, after all.

At least with the OP's situation he has the option of seeing if the fan works via the remote. Isolating the circuit at the CU would be much much better than a proliferation of switches on the bedrooom wall, IMO.

 

[JohnW2]

Isolating the circuit at the CU would be much much better than a proliferation of switches on the bedrooom wall, IMO.

It's difficult to argue with that, but I wonder how many people, even electricians, would actually do that to change a lamp?

Kind Regards, John

 

[plugwash]

I wouldn't do it just to change a failed but physically intact lamp but I sure as hell do isolate at the CU (and warn other people in the houdr not to turn it back on if applicable) before attemping to remove the remains of a broken lamp out of the lampholder.

I don't trust lightswitches as an isolating device for various reasons (two way switching, possibility that some switches operate upside down, lack of positive indication of contact seperation).

 

[JohnW2]

I wouldn't do it just to change a failed but physically intact lamp but I sure as hell do isolate at the CU (and warn other people in the houdr not to turn it back on if applicable) before attemping to remove the remains of a broken lamp out of the lampholder.

You and the vast majority of the rest of us, I imagine! ... but that's a bit different!

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I wouldn't do it just to change a failed but physically intact lamp but I sure as hell do isolate at the CU (and warn other people in the houdr not to turn it back on if applicable) before attemping to remove the remains of a broken lamp out of the lampholder.

I've got one of those to tackle.

I know from experience I'll have to isolate the circuit, and remove the luminaire to work on. Hopefully I'll avoid a N-E trip.

 

[JohnW2]

I've got one of those to tackle. I know from experience I'll have to isolate the circuit, and remove the luminaire to work on. Hopefully I'll avoid a N-E trip.

You're not going to use the main switch to isolate, then

P.S. your input to the 'wiki safety draft' threads would be very welcome, and appreciated!

Kind Regards, John