I am reliably informed that really you shouldn't change bt master sockets unless it is done by one of their engineers, was gonna be a rebel and do it anyways as it really doesn't look that difficult, just need to know which terminals on my new socket I put the existing cables into. There are two cables connected, one white, one orange, and two not connected. My new master socket has 6 terminals numbered 1-6. Can anyone help?
Changing bt master socket
- Thread starter Gamp
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holmslaw
The wires are usually orange with a white stripe into 3 and white with a blue stripe into 2.
You should use a displacement tool to push the wires in.
Edit - OoPs, Chri5 is correct the terminals are 2 and 5, 3 is a ring wire that is not required on modern phones.
You should use a displacement tool to push the wires in.
Edit - OoPs, Chri5 is correct the terminals are 2 and 5, 3 is a ring wire that is not required on modern phones.
Unfortunately you have been misinformed 
BT terminates on pins 2 and 5 at the master, sockets on from the master get terminated 2, 5 and anti tinkle / bell wire is 3.
Polarity isn't an issue, but if you want to put a multimeter between earth and each of the two wires, one should show about 50v DC that is the B'leg or battery. A' leg is earth.
A'leg terminates pin 2, B'leg terminates pin 5.
On a NTE / BT master there is seperation between the customer internal sockets and the i/c line for test and faulting reasons.
If you don't have an NTE and the BT records show you did, should you have a fault BT will have to visit and will charge. Normally if you have a fault the customer side is disconnected via removing the bottom plate and plug on an NTE which seperates the BT and customer wiring.
BT terminates on pins 2 and 5 at the master, sockets on from the master get terminated 2, 5 and anti tinkle / bell wire is 3.
Polarity isn't an issue, but if you want to put a multimeter between earth and each of the two wires, one should show about 50v DC that is the B'leg or battery. A' leg is earth.
A'leg terminates pin 2, B'leg terminates pin 5.
On a NTE / BT master there is seperation between the customer internal sockets and the i/c line for test and faulting reasons.
If you don't have an NTE and the BT records show you did, should you have a fault BT will have to visit and will charge. Normally if you have a fault the customer side is disconnected via removing the bottom plate and plug on an NTE which seperates the BT and customer wiring.
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Paul_C
And on the incoming drop wire, the first line is on white & orange (they are plain colors, not banded/striped). Green & black are for a second line, if required.
Other way around if you want to follow the standard properly, although as noted already, for all modern equipment polarity is not an issue.
But the incoming drop wire isn't connected to the numbered punchdown terminals on the NTE anyway. It's connected to the A & B terminals on the upper section.
To save yourself headache, take a picture of the socket where the wires terminate and put them into the same numbers as it was in the original socket, this way you can’t go wrong. If you have a problem, call me, I will talk you through it. i was a bt engineer for 7 years.
I hope this information does you good...
I hope this information does you good...
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