Checking a Honeywell 2 port valve

[olbasoil]

I am not getting hot water- unless I have the Honeywell V404 3H1056 jammed in the open position.

I have tried applying a direct 240 ac across the blue and brown wires (earth also connected - orange and grey terminated) I was expecting to see the lever at the bottom move to the open position- but it actually seemed harder to move across. Does that indicate a faulty valve?

I suspect that it is my wiring that is at fault- but wanted to test the valve and thermostat in isolation to confirm that they are working.

 

[45yearsagasman]

Have you just fitted this valve and rewired? Have you tested between brown and blue with a meter? This will rest the synchron motor windings.

 

[ianmcd]

As Pete says sounds like the synchron motor has seized, an easy and cheap repair if this is the case

 

[olbasoil]

Have you just fitted this valve and rewired? Have you tested between brown and blue with a meter? This will rest the synchron motor windings.

The valve has been in place for 20 years, but I did move the junction box, and though I made noted about what went where, I distrust my original diagrams. To make things worse, it has actually never supplied hot water independent of heating- so I suspect the original wiring was incorrect.

Is there a test I can do on just the valve, in place in the pipework but isolated electrically?

 

[D_Hailsham]

How many valves do you have?

If more than one, what are the makes/models of the others?

 

[olbasoil]

How many valves do you have?

If more than one, what are the makes/models of the others?

There are 3 Honeywell 2 port valves- I believe they are all V404. Two of them are next to the pump in the attic. This one (in the airing cupboard) is next to the immersion heater with its own junction box. The box has the cylinder thermostat (2 wires) the Honeywell (5 wires) and two 3 core wires.

Hot c/h water reaches the valve by the cylinder with the downstairs heating on (and with the valve jammed open - it gives hot clean water).

 

[D_Hailsham]

There are 3 Honeywell 2 port valves- I believe they are all V404. Two of them are next to the pump in the attic. This one (in the airing cupboard) is next to the immersion heater with its own junction box. The box has the cylinder thermostat (2 wires) the Honeywell (5 wires) and two 3 core wires.

What make/model HW cylinder do you have?

 

[olbasoil]

There are 3 Honeywell 2 port valves- I believe they are all V404. Two of them are next to the pump in the attic. This one (in the airing cupboard) is next to the immersion heater with its own junction box. The box has the cylinder thermostat (2 wires) the Honeywell (5 wires) and two 3 core wires.

What make/model HW cylinder do you have?

Gosh, I've no idea! It's old, big, copper, and covered in foam. It has an electric immersion heater in the top (working well) and the central heating going in at the middle and out from the bottom. The valve is on the flow side. There's a break on hot thermostat- also a Honeywell l641a1005.

I think I have 2 problems
1) Verify that the valve is working or not. I've tried to do that by wiring directly to a 13 amp plug, but the lever at the bottom does not swing across- but I'm not even sure if it should? On its own I can move the lever against resistance, but when wired to plug it won't move at all.
2) Sort out my wiring. I can work out how to connect thermostat and valve- but identifying what the two wires (red, black and earth) connect to is going to involve a climb into a very unpleasant attic. I have got a positive circuit on one of the reds to the Domestic Hot Water Demand on the controller.

 

[D_Hailsham]

There are 3 Honeywell 2 port valves- I believe they are all V404.

What make/model HW cylinder do you have?

Gosh, I've no idea! It's old, big, copper, and covered in foam.

That's OK.

Three motorized valves meant that you either had two heating zones and a HW zone, or you had one heating zone and an unvented HW cylinder (The third valve acts as a safety device for the unvented cylinder.) YOur description of the cylinder says that you have the first - 2 CH zones and one HW zone.

I think I have 2 problems
1) Verify that the valve is working or not. I've tried to do that by wiring directly to a 13 amp plug, but the lever at the bottom does not swing across- but I'm not even sure if it should? On its own I can move the lever against resistance, but when wired to plug it won't move at all.

Connecting the valve brown and blue to a 13A plug should open the valve - lever will be loose. From what you say, the valve motor has failed. Replacement motors can be obtained from most DIY stores or plumbers merchants.

Sort out my wiring.

Here's the wiring diagram for system with 2 CH zones and one HW zone. (Click to enlarge then right click to save)

View media item 30349