Circular Saw blade

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was this purchased from Lidl recently ? If they have still in stock, they may exchange , otherwise its just a refund.
have you cut any other material , or is the first use on those 4x2 , i cut I have cut a lot of ct16 posts which are 95x45 for the garden, at a 60degree angle and also square off the length - really easy, so as you saw - it should be a breeze, unless its really wet.

Yes bought it just few weeks ago.. I did cut the old floor boards.. it was relatively easy, the only thing different with this was the
Or the operator?

Rip or cross cutting? Rip or cross cutting blade?

A saw will cut even wet wood, so even that can't be the problem

It's a cross cut. Get your point about me not operating it correctly but I wouldn't have thought it would be rocket science lol
 
Well a cross cut blade cross-cutting timber should fly through timber even is its soaking wet, on a wet summer day, underwater, maybe.

You do know the bit about adjusting the blade depth to be just deeper than the timber?
 
Depends on blade size , my cordless dewalt blade is just too shallow and starts to bind on 4x2 as it does not cut right thru depth.Have you adjusted the depth of cut?
 
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How are you supporting the wood? Is it sagging and pinching the blade as you get 75percent through the cut? That would lead to the burning that you describe.
 
Rip or cross cutting? Rip or cross cutting blade?
On a portable circular saw you generally just see general blades which are capable of both

OP, are you using the 24t blade, and what results do you get if you trymaking a 10mm deep cut and a 25mm deep cut?

Yes bought it just few weeks ago.. I did cut the old floor boards.. it was relatively easy, the only thing different with this was the
Did you hit any metal (screws, nails, etc) when making those cuts? That can screw up a blade pretty quickly
 
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Using a Sharp or Reciprocating saw doesn't burn the wood and cuts it with ease (although rough)

What could it be then? The blade?
 
I make literally thousands of saw cuts every year and even when blades are going off (i.e.starting to go blunt) they still cut. You said that you had cut old floor boards and this stood out in my mind. I've been on a number of jobs (listed buildings) where it has been necessary to cut out old floor boards out for replacement. You can never tell what is in there - even new chipboard sheet can contain the odd screw. Most recently it was a job where we replaced the entire top floor of a mill complex; most of the floor was two or three layers of softwood with the bottom layer being 1-1/2in thick and held together with loose, rolled iron tongues (just under 0.5mm thick). There were loads of wrought iron cut nails in the floors. I went through dozens of blades on that job - enough to realise which blades were best at cutting through timber with metal embedded - and I can catogorically state that hitting metal ctream crackers blades, even if they look OK.

The saw is new and from what you say it was running OK before, hence why I suggested earlier that you make cuts at depth settings of 10mm then 25mm to see if those are possible. You didn't respond to that suggestion. In the lack of any other information I therefore think it highly likely that you have either hit a nail or worse a screw making that flooring cut and that your saw blade is blunt, or you have taken the saw blade out of the saw and replaced it reversed. Nothing else fits. So go and get yourself a new blade and try that - the teeth should be pointing upwards to the sole plate at the front of the saw when installed, thus:
DW Cordless Saw.jpg

You might like to know that I can happily cut 4 x 2s in wet timber with a cordless 18 volt saw fitted with a 20 tooth blade (about 450 watts equivalent) - something I do regularly - so a 1350 watt mains power saw should eat a 4 x 2.
 
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Thats makes sense, but I don't think I went through any nails.

The saw is new and from what you say it was running OK before, hence why I suggested that you make cuts at depth settings of 10mm then 25mm to see if those are possible. You didn't respond to that suggestion. In the lack of any other information I therefore think it highly likely that you have either hit a nail or worse a screw making that flooring cut and that your saw blade is blunt, or you have taken the saw blade out of the saw and replaced it reversed. Nothing else fits

You might like to know that I can happily cut 4 x 2s in wet timber with a cordless 18 volt saw fitted with a 20 tooth blade - something I do regularly - so a 1250 watt saw should eat it

Apologies, I thought I had replied. I did cut the 10mm and 25mm woods with ease.. attached are the pictures of the blade. Perhaps it's a poor quality blade after all..
20211107_185837.jpg 20211107_185824.jpg
 
I might be mistaken, but it looks as though you have at least one broken tooth on that blade (the bottom most one) which indicates contact with metal at some point in a cut. I suggest you replace the blade with a 190mm diameter x 30mm bore 24t blade - something like a Saxton or a Dart blade. Keep the gash blade for doing floorboards

Gash Saw Blade (2).jpg
 
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It's just the photo, the teeth appear to be OK.. but you may be right, there may have been contact which I'm not aware off.

I have managed to cut the 4x2s now need to cut 18mm plywood.. do you think I can use the 48 teeth one or shall I get a new 24 teeth one for the job?
 
48t for plywood should give a better quality cut. 24t will give a much rougher cut

One further thing to check is that the riving kinife is aligned with the blade. That might explain the ability to do shallow cuts but struggle on deep ones because it is binding in the cut, but in that instance you'd get well into the cut before it started to bind.
 
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