In principle an excellent idea, but its an asbestos roof so unlikely to take my weight.
Clearing gap between sectional garages
- Thread starter amfisted
- Start date
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my thoughts
if you do use nails angle them back [away from the handle]about 10-15degrees so the nails will be near vertical or only just forward facing so it will hook the load and scrape along rather than digging in to the soil when pulling at around waist level
a couple off k or 5lbs added to the "rake head" may help prevent it skipping off the detritus you are dragging
if you do use nails angle them back [away from the handle]about 10-15degrees so the nails will be near vertical or only just forward facing so it will hook the load and scrape along rather than digging in to the soil when pulling at around waist level
a couple off k or 5lbs added to the "rake head" may help prevent it skipping off the detritus you are dragging
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Drain rods, with one of these on the end?
www.screwfix.com
Bailey 3/4" Drop Scraper - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Locks in position over offending material, allowing it to be dragged back towards the operator. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
Cracking idea, and I do in fact already possess a set of drain rods. Will give that a go.Drain rods, with one of these on the end?
Bailey 3/4" Drop Scraper - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Locks in position over offending material, allowing it to be dragged back towards the operator. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
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You may struggle to lift the end of flexible drain rods from 20ft away .
Yes, true enough. I’ll see what transpires, once I can lay my hands on the rods.
Ah yes, that would make sense. I've moved on to something else since posting my OP, but the drain rod route will be my first port of call once I return to this task. Thanks all, once again.
Reckon it’s appropriate to provide an update.
I bought the Screwfix scraper thingy and attached it to the drain rods, taping all the connections to make sure I didn’t lose anything, and pushed it into the gap. The scraper is much smaller than the gap’s width so it took multiple “drags” to remove a decent amount of muck, but I made progress. Eventually I got bored and decided to check whether I could squeeze into the gap and to my astonishment, the answer was Yes, though it was flippin’ tight. So I took a length of 4x1, squeezed in and dragged out as much of the remaining gunk as possible, then blasted out what was left with a hosepipe. All this activity revealed a drainage channel on the floor of the gap, so from now on I should be able to keep it clear with the occasional jet of water.
I bought the Screwfix scraper thingy and attached it to the drain rods, taping all the connections to make sure I didn’t lose anything, and pushed it into the gap. The scraper is much smaller than the gap’s width so it took multiple “drags” to remove a decent amount of muck, but I made progress. Eventually I got bored and decided to check whether I could squeeze into the gap and to my astonishment, the answer was Yes, though it was flippin’ tight. So I took a length of 4x1, squeezed in and dragged out as much of the remaining gunk as possible, then blasted out what was left with a hosepipe. All this activity revealed a drainage channel on the floor of the gap, so from now on I should be able to keep it clear with the occasional jet of water.
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The drop scraper has to be the small size that it is, so that it fits inside the drain pipe.
You could always get a bigger bit of sheet metal or similar, and bolt / rivet / weld it to the half - moon plate.
Glad you had success though
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