Clogged IAC valve on a Carina
- Thread starter madder
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Well, it's never straightforward is it? 
But I think it's worked!
So I tried my best to take off the rubber tube between Air Filter and Throttle Body. What I really wanted to do was remove the part attached to the Throttle body. I managed to loosen the screw no problem. But the tube was so tightly attached to the Throttle body that I was worried I was gonna damage it if I put too much pressure on trying to remove it.
So I loosened the side attached to the air filter and that came off handy enough. Thankfully the Carb Cleaner spray had an extension straw which you can attach to the nozzle. I did that and put it in the tube from the air filter side. It got a good distance in, and I could see the area through the tube that I wanted to get cleaned. I sprayed it twice for approx 5 seconds each time. It certainly did make some contact with the area I needed it to. So then I sealed it all back up. I turned the key and the car struggled and didn't start. Then I tried again, and it struggled but this time did start. And it ran smoothly, seemingly, without any problems. I'll give it a few days before I will start to feel confident but so far, so good.
What do you guys think?
But I think it's worked!So I tried my best to take off the rubber tube between Air Filter and Throttle Body. What I really wanted to do was remove the part attached to the Throttle body. I managed to loosen the screw no problem. But the tube was so tightly attached to the Throttle body that I was worried I was gonna damage it if I put too much pressure on trying to remove it.
So I loosened the side attached to the air filter and that came off handy enough. Thankfully the Carb Cleaner spray had an extension straw which you can attach to the nozzle. I did that and put it in the tube from the air filter side. It got a good distance in, and I could see the area through the tube that I wanted to get cleaned. I sprayed it twice for approx 5 seconds each time. It certainly did make some contact with the area I needed it to. So then I sealed it all back up. I turned the key and the car struggled and didn't start. Then I tried again, and it struggled but this time did start. And it ran smoothly, seemingly, without any problems. I'll give it a few days before I will start to feel confident but so far, so good.
What do you guys think?
Well, it's been 3 days now since I sprayed into the tube towards the throttle body and hopefully, on to the ICV. The car has not given me any problems after the initial start since then, so I am guessing that end of it has been sorted for the moment. On the negative side, twice over the last 4 days, even if it was just for very short amounts of time, I did get the dim dashboard lights. There must be some sort of electrical fault. There really must be. I just don't know how it happened, when you consider all have done is change the terminal clamp. The only difference now is that the 2 wires attached to the old fashioned clamp have gone into the same side of the more modern clamp. That is the only electrical work I have done on this car. I wish I could figure this out.
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Was there anything in particular that you could say made them come on? Like additional electrics switched on (rear screen/heater etc). Probably a just a bad earth on something and when you switch it on it earths through the lights.
Unless the small wire is making a bad connection no and then to the battery terminal? All nice and clean no corrosion on the connections anywhere?
Great you got the valve sorted out
Unless the small wire is making a bad connection no and then to the battery terminal? All nice and clean no corrosion on the connections anywhere?
Great you got the valve sorted out
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Mursal, the only thing it could be is the small wire making a bad connection. The last 2 times I noticed the dim lights were
1. I drove the car for 1 hour. Stopped the engine, returned to the car 5 minutes later, or maybe less, drove it again and I noticed 2 minutes later that the dim dash lights were on. I wasn't using the lights or any other electrics at the time as it was early in the day.
and 2. I drove the car for just over an hour, parked up for 2 hours, and when I got back in it failed to start on the first attempt, but it stared on the 2nd key turn. I noticed immediately that the dim dash lights were on. 5 Minutes later the dim dash lights were no longer on.
Some days they don't come on at all.
If I had to choose 1 thing from the battery clamp that might not be perfect it would be the smaller wire. Do you think that might be the problem?
if it is, I could easily buy a joining block and some wire and make the connection more solid?
Hello again
I do think that there is a slight alternator fault here....after you start up, there is a high initial demand for current from the alternator, and after a few minutes this diminishes as the battery regains its charge.
Perhaps this scenario is related to your case? After starting, the dash lamps are dim, but after a few minutes they extinguish?
If not an alternator fault, its probably an earth fault on the dashboard somewhere.
John
I do think that there is a slight alternator fault here....after you start up, there is a high initial demand for current from the alternator, and after a few minutes this diminishes as the battery regains its charge.
Perhaps this scenario is related to your case? After starting, the dash lamps are dim, but after a few minutes they extinguish?
If not an alternator fault, its probably an earth fault on the dashboard somewhere.
John
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Double check your own work first. If its a good connection leave it, if not make sure it can be ruled out.
If only the charging light is coming on dim, its the alternator. If all light on the dash are coming on dim. then its a bad connection somewhere, probably a bad earth (where the negative wires are connected to the steel work of the car).
We had this trouble a while back and it was the ignition switch, so keep an open mind.
If only the charging light is coming on dim, its the alternator. If all light on the dash are coming on dim. then its a bad connection somewhere, probably a bad earth (where the negative wires are connected to the steel work of the car).
We had this trouble a while back and it was the ignition switch, so keep an open mind.
Hello again all!
The dim lights are the 'car light' to suggest a door is open, the 'parking break' to suggest hand break is on, 'the hazard lights', the 'low petrol' warning, so it's not just the battery light that's dimly lit. Again, it didn't happen today at all. It might only happen once every 3 to 4 days.
I have had a look at the terminal clamp and it looks ok still. It would be difficult to tll for sure without loosening it and removing it again, but it looks good.
When you mention the earth wires to the car steel, do you mean the one from the negative terminal of the battery?
The dim lights are the 'car light' to suggest a door is open, the 'parking break' to suggest hand break is on, 'the hazard lights', the 'low petrol' warning, so it's not just the battery light that's dimly lit. Again, it didn't happen today at all. It might only happen once every 3 to 4 days.
I have had a look at the terminal clamp and it looks ok still. It would be difficult to tll for sure without loosening it and removing it again, but it looks good.
When you mention the earth wires to the car steel, do you mean the one from the negative terminal of the battery?
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Yes and all the other ones coming from sensors lights etc. Just a bad one somewhere, possibly only in damp weather?
Not an east fault to find, but you will probably find its after a certain sequence of events.
Did you try playing with the key to see if the lights go out, or come on?
I wouldn't over stress about it to much as it probably wont get any worse.
Not an east fault to find, but you will probably find its after a certain sequence of events.
Did you try playing with the key to see if the lights go out, or come on?
I wouldn't over stress about it to much as it probably wont get any worse.
Once today I Had the old symptom of cutting out after 5 minutes! As usual it started up again straight away and stayed on for the duration of my trip, which was about 35 minutes.
I reckon it's just that the ICV still isn't fully clean, mainly because I cannot get as close to it as I'd like.
I guess I'll be spraying the Carb Cleaner again in the coming days.
On the plus side the electrical fault hasn't resurfaced now in over a week.
I reckon it's just that the ICV still isn't fully clean, mainly because I cannot get as close to it as I'd like.
I guess I'll be spraying the Carb Cleaner again in the coming days.
On the plus side the electrical fault hasn't resurfaced now in over a week.
Hi Mursal. There is an extension pipe with it, but because I'm unable to get the rubber tube between the air filter and the throttle body completely removed, the extension pipe isn't helping as much as it should!
On the throttle side, the rubber tube seems to be seized. I can remove it from the air filter side and spray in from that side. That is what I did the last time, and it did the trick for a week or 10 days anyway. I'll try that again.
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