Close Coupled WC - Sealant

Ok all - thanks. The last (and first) close-coupled wc I fitted a long time back I did follow the instructions 100% and did NOT use any compounds on the washers, but it DID leak. I was forced to take it apart three times. In the end I resorted to a sealant which did the job.

Hence my questions at the outset when I had this new one to fit - what was the best thing to do.

It seems there is no one answer and it is a hit and miss affair - you might be lucky and you might not.
 
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kendor:
Silicone sealant can lose adhesion if moved
You must have needed to remove a silicone bead from between the basin and tiles. The stuff really sticks and if applied to dry surfaces it's difficult to break the adhesion.
Dunc, luck doesn't come into it. If the components are not faulty then they will seal if assembled correctly. If they are faulty and the hole is not as good as it should be, then you have a choice of fitting a new one or accommodating the fault with sealant which I still say should be silicone.
 
Well, that's that then - re-installed - NO leaks! Yippee :D

Some learnt lessons then.

1) ensure the pan exhaust is in line with the stack connector - and at the correct angle. If too low, cut out a couple of base shapes from hardboard, with slots for where the screws go through. Use as necessary to raise slightly. If too high then ?? :confused: ??
2) check for level pan several places - mine was level at rear but slightly out at front (made twisted).
3) Use a decent pan to stack connector. I had bought two Kwikfit plastic ones from B&Q and Focus - both leaked from the palstic bit that holds the rubber flange around the pan exhaust. Went to local plumber's merchant and bought a rubbery Multikwik - excellent! only cost about a pound or so more than the others. Others a waste - this one did the job.
4) ensure that all the seals in the cistern are sound before final fitting to the pan. Fit all the bits including water inlet and overflow - tighten bolt/washer/rubber cone as tight as it will go without forcing it; place an open step ladder on its side in the garden; take the cistern down and place on the ladder; fill with water from garden hose until absolutely full to the point of overflowing; leave for few minutes and then check all joints for seepage - tighten as necessary, wiping away seeped water so you can see if any fresh arrives. When all leaks gone, flush and empty - fit to pan.
5) ensure that the cistern sits squarely on the pan - make sure it doesn't start leaning back when screwed to the wall - don't screw it to the wall until balance horizontally with the cistern/pan bolts and wingnuts (use a spirit level), and until connected water and overflow, and filled with water.
 
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shaggy said:
kendor:
Silicone sealant can lose adhesion if moved
You must have needed to remove a silicone bead from between the basin and tiles. The stuff really sticks and if applied to dry surfaces it's difficult to break the adhesion.
Dunc, luck doesn't come into it. If the components are not faulty then they will seal if assembled correctly. If they are faulty and the hole is not as good as it should be, then you have a choice of fitting a new one or accommodating the fault with sealant which I still say should be silicone.
I was referring to the joints between pan and cistern where there can be a slight movement
 

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