Clueless girl -Potterton Puma 80E locks out - HELP Please!

[3continentsplumber]

Sorry to say this, but as a mechanical engineer, I have very little faith in gas fitters. Many of the ones I have met, don't seem to have a clue apart from "lets change this part and see what happens". I've yet to meet one with the proper tool kit for the job.
It sounds to me as though there could be a blockage in the heat exchanger that is restricting water flow and causing the system to overheat. Then the overheat thermostat cuts off the gas to prevent damage. When it all cools down, you are able to restart it for a short time.
The root cause could be debris from the heating water clogging up either the primary or secondary heat exchanger or both of them.
The solution depends on how badly the system is affected. It may be possible to clean out the heat exchangers or if they are badly clogged, they may need to be replaced. Ideally, the central heating circuit should be powerflushed to prevent the problem happening again.

 

[bengasman]

If you could put together a course after which the attendants would know exactly how to clean the secondary heatexchanger on a puma, you would be a rich man.
Your post shows nothing but your own ignorance.

 

[baxpoti]

What a load of carp. Its a PUMA!! FFS...............What is so difficult?


British gas and Potterton have a very close relationship.
Tell BG if they can't fix it they need to get the manufacturers out, who can fix it. (Famous last words as the newest Heateam trainee goes to the job).

 

[baxpoti]

Ideally, the central heating circuit should be powerflushed to prevent the problem happening again.

Bet you own one?

 

[Agile]

Ideally, the central heating circuit should be powerflushed to prevent the problem happening again.

That sounds just like a BG employee selling an overpriced power flush!

 

[Ludi]

One of the BG guys did mention the power flush, which of course is not covered by insurence policy. Although it's quite expensive, we wouldn't mind to pay, if we were sure that the engineer actually knows what he is talking about and is sure that it will solve the problem. But with the experience we already have, our impression is that they really don't know and they are just trying different things. We don't want to spend so much money if it's not necessary and find out 5 minutes later that the boiler is not working again. Do you guys think that the power flush could really help? Would you do it if it was your boiler?

 

[bengasman]

As you already have a new pump, guaranteeing enough flow in that respect, it is really easy to find out exactly how much debris is in the system, and even demonstrate it to the customer.
A few simple tests, and I can predict fairly accurately how much gunk is in a radiator. I can, if required, prove it by taking the rad off, and tipping it out in the garden; it really is not rocket science.

Anyone who can't do that, or "does not have time to do that" should not be trusted to do a good powerflush.

 

[Agile]

Sorry to say this, but as a mechanical engineer, I have very little faith in gas fitters. Many of the ones I have met, don't seem to have a clue apart from "lets change this part and see what happens".

Unfortunately you have demonstrated with your posting that its YOU who dont have a clue about this boiler!

I agree there are some parts changers who cannot diagnose faults but that does not apply to me or most of the others I have met.

I suppose you dont even go out to the Castle Balti either.

Tony

 

[Itzafak]

Any idea what could cause overheating?
We didn't manage to turn the CH on/restart the boiler all night, the house is really cold (so happy it's not winter). When we tried to switch the boiler on, it does turn itself on, you can hear the fan, but the flame won't light up, it goes to lockout mode after few seconds.

By now you've tried everything?

...I'll go back to the piece of information above.
Did you have the boiler 'serviced' recently?
I once found a CORGI (now 'GSR)' engineer after a sevice had 'accidently' bent the ignition electrode to less than 1mm from the gas jet.
It's easily done, but this meant that the boiler would not ignite consistently (as there is insufficient energy in the spark to ignite the gas), causing the lock-outs you describe after 10 secs.
Also, if the temperature rises there could be even less of a gap.
A different boiler make/model - but many of the same vintage have similar interlocks (especially safety) due to EU legislation.
Not sure what the gap should be for your boiler - but often it's around 3 mm.
...Just maybe?

Unfortunately, 'Gas SAFETY Registered' means just that.
He will work safely onn your system, and leave it in a safe condition.
- As before, there is no guarantee that an individual GSR engineer has the knowledge or experience to chase down and repair a fault on your particular system. You should still go by your own previous experience and trusted recommendations when selecting a GSR engineer to service or repair your system.
- A choice you may not have if contracted to an organisation like BG.

Ask your next engineer to check this (if you dare!).

 

[Agile]

Its now three weeks since Ludi has said anything so I am guessing that its finally been made to work properly.

Pity that Ludi did not tell us what they finally did to sort it out!

Tony

 

[geoff@cetltd]

This is amazing!

When I go to repair a boiler, I have to make just one visit and diagnose the fault and expect to complete the repair on that visit!

This is only a boiler !


Its not ONLY a boiler - its an M & S boiler

 

[Itzafak]

Its now three weeks since Ludi has said anything so I am guessing that its finally been made to work properly.

Pity that Ludi did not tell us what they finally did to sort it out!

Tony

Hope so - I came across the story by accident - and it reminded me of my daughter's problem.

 

[Ludi]

Sorry for the delay in responding, i had no access to internet.
well, after more than 2 months we have hot water again and CT is working as well. We called BG and complained so they told us to contact Potterton and arrange for an engineer to come and have a look at our boiler. The first guy from Potterton changed another part, and after he left, the boiler stopped working again. He was just guessing, didn't really know what's wrong. So we rang Potterton again and demanded for some more 'senior' engineer to come and sort it out. The guy came, looked and said that the ''circuit ign.board'' (not sure whether this is a correct/official name for it) is faulty (which has already been changed twice by BG engineers) but he said that apparently the boards made/manufactured in 2008 are faulty and that BG may have loads of them in stock, that's why even when they change it, it won't make any difference. He changed it for a new one and boiler is working now perfectly. Really happy that this is over. The only thing we need to sort out now is our low water flow, the water company checked the mains outside and said that it's all fine, on maximum, so we need to somehow find out what's causing the low flow in the house. so another problem to sort out. Although not really sure where to start, assume the pipe might be somehow blocked somewhere, maybe stupid question but is there a way how to find out where?
Many thanks to all of you and your suggestions when trying to sort out our boiler problem.
Regards
Ludi

 

[Agile]

Has any Bax/Pot engineer ever heard of 2008 Puma PCBs being of faulty manufacture?

Our stock is pre 2008 so we dont have any problem!

Tony

 

[baxpoti]

No.