Probably an awful lot of hassle, given that it would presumably have to be quite an extensive 'loop' but, yes, that would be equivalent to a larger towel rail and/or larger radiator - provided there was somewhere that the 'loop' could be located.
Interesting. Does not that carry the risk of people having hot heads but with the walls (which seems to concern the OP) remaining cold?
I would hope the fan heater would circulate warm air in the room. I was thinking to fit it at one end above the sink, so the user should get a nice warm blast of air as they do their whatever!What do you mean by 'the normal position' (in a bathroom)? Unlike kitchens, bathrooms often (usually?) don't have 'plinths'(unlesss there is one at the bottom of some item of 'bathroom furniture'.
Trying to heat any room from above, as per the OP's suggestion, is never likely to be a particularly good idea (unless one is a fly, and spends most of one's life on the ceiling).
Kind Regards, John
As I mentioned above, 750mm wide and 710 pipe centres is a very odd size, only Reina make that size and that’s what is fitted.
That’s an interesting product. The boiler is in the loft space right above the bathroom, so theoretically it could plumb straight into he CH pipes. In reality all the bathroom needs is a top up.
Fair enough, but everything you're consider would surely require some degree of 'alterations' to the CH plumbing, so that 710mm pipe centres doesn't have to be 'set in stone', does it?
It will 'pump' warm air into the room, but that will tend to heat the room 'from top downwards'
Fair enough but, as I wrote earlier, I see no reason why it needs to be a 12V one - and if you removed that restriction/requirement, you would have much more choice.n
We;re only talking about the orientation of the fan, and I really can't see that making any difference. Let's face it. standard 'extractor fans can be (and are) installed in either ceilings or walls.
Every plinth heater I've seen will use ('suck in') the air in it's immediate surroundings, so that might be an issue. However, to overcome that potential problem might be a fairly major issue/cvhallenge. Merely 'boxing it in' would not be an answer - for it to work at all, it would have to be able to draw in air (to heat up) from somewhere.
Thanks John for your comments.
Are you saying that the pipes enter the room through the tiled (rather than from under the floor)? Even if that is the case I would have thought that it would be possible to 'extend' one or both of the pipes after it/they enter the room (to accommodate a radiator of different dimensions) in a manner that was pretty inconspicuous, wouldn't it?
You would have to examine the particular plinth heater, to see where it's 'air intake' (explicit or implicit) was. If it was (and only) 'at the front (i.e. through the same grille as air was being blown out of, what you suggest would be OK. However, although it's a long time since I've seen a 'not installed' plinth heather, I think you may well find that the entirety of the front ('grille') is used for 'blowing out', the air 'intake' being from back and/or sides of the heater - which would be fine in the 'intended'situation in which the entire unit was 'within the room' in question (under a bit of furniture). However, if it was like that and you effectively 'boxed in' ('airtight') the unit, it would have no real access to 'input air' and therefore would not work very well, if st sll, in pumping heated air into the room.
Electric might be simpler to install, but would b much more expensive to run - and there would still be the issue of "where it was getting its input air from" (hence what temp that air would be).
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