you have to be corgi regd to work on gas, i believe you should hold qualification cards to work on appliances (not just acs)
Combi Boiler problem
- Thread starter semps
- Start date
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gonna have to get a new one.
I have been down a similar route, when trying to find a problem for a relative.
I have been helped by a couple of Chris's on this site and we seem to have narrowed it down to the pump also.
I changed the diverter valve diaphragm and bled the system before switching the boiler on again. The pump was unable to raise the flow diaphragm so not lighting the gas. After looking closer I found the automatic bleed valve built into the pump was blocked, so the pump was not bleed properly and perhaps this caused it to run slower, because even after sorting out the bleed, the gas didn't come on.
The pump has 1" fittings, so the screwfix model won't fit and in order to use a 1 1/2" pump, the boiler pipes would have to be modified. All I could find is the valves that normally go each side of a pump, and there isn't enogh room to fit them.
Good luck.
I have been helped by a couple of Chris's on this site and we seem to have narrowed it down to the pump also.
I changed the diverter valve diaphragm and bled the system before switching the boiler on again. The pump was unable to raise the flow diaphragm so not lighting the gas. After looking closer I found the automatic bleed valve built into the pump was blocked, so the pump was not bleed properly and perhaps this caused it to run slower, because even after sorting out the bleed, the gas didn't come on.
The pump has 1" fittings, so the screwfix model won't fit and in order to use a 1 1/2" pump, the boiler pipes would have to be modified. All I could find is the valves that normally go each side of a pump, and there isn't enogh room to fit them.
Good luck.
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I have a similar problem- ariston sx20 and a trigger happy plumber...
Basically primary flow switch pin working with CH on but not with dhw alone.
So Plumber attends and says switch not working correctly as pin not rising fully (although it seemed to be to me -(the untrained eye!))
So he replaced the pin + spring etc.
Now the pin not rising at all - neither for dhw or CH!
So he decided to just bypass the entire mechanism and stick the two ends of the microswitch together.
Yes it works fine (no rising of pin but hot water!!)
Q1 - So what am i getting my self in to??
I did mention the pump and the small kinked pipes from the flow switch as two possibilities as stated on this forum.
He says pump fine cause if it was not i would be getting trouble with CH not heating up right or overheat on dhw and CH.
So has offered to come back and clean pipes out... to see if the problem is grime that has now shifted further round.
Q2 - He told me the "stuff to clean the system with cost £65" - seems steep - is this correct and if not can anyone direct me to where it can be brought cheaper?
Q3 - If cleaning the system does not work (makes sense that it should.. but if it does not...) then should i get pump replaced or should i bite the bullet and change the boiler?
Basically primary flow switch pin working with CH on but not with dhw alone.
So Plumber attends and says switch not working correctly as pin not rising fully (although it seemed to be to me -(the untrained eye!))
So he replaced the pin + spring etc.
Now the pin not rising at all - neither for dhw or CH!
So he decided to just bypass the entire mechanism and stick the two ends of the microswitch together.
Yes it works fine (no rising of pin but hot water!!)
Q1 - So what am i getting my self in to??
I did mention the pump and the small kinked pipes from the flow switch as two possibilities as stated on this forum.
He says pump fine cause if it was not i would be getting trouble with CH not heating up right or overheat on dhw and CH.
So has offered to come back and clean pipes out... to see if the problem is grime that has now shifted further round.
Q2 - He told me the "stuff to clean the system with cost £65" - seems steep - is this correct and if not can anyone direct me to where it can be brought cheaper?
Q3 - If cleaning the system does not work (makes sense that it should.. but if it does not...) then should i get pump replaced or should i bite the bullet and change the boiler?
Function of the switch that your man has now bypassed, is to ensure boiler has sufficient water ibefore burner fires.
Sequence of operation is as follows. Hot water or heating demand starts pump, water flow operates flow switch (that the idiot has short circuited), which completes the circuit to run fan to finally lead to burner firing.
With the switch bypassed, boiler lack of water will NOT be recognised leading to FIRE in the boiler that will melt everything in the combustion chamber.
Get this fellow back double quick.....Even, report him to tradeing standards/ HSE for putting your life at risk
Sequence of operation is as follows. Hot water or heating demand starts pump, water flow operates flow switch (that the idiot has short circuited), which completes the circuit to run fan to finally lead to burner firing.
With the switch bypassed, boiler lack of water will NOT be recognised leading to FIRE in the boiler that will melt everything in the combustion chamber.
Get this fellow back double quick.....Even, report him to tradeing standards/ HSE for putting your life at risk
appreciate the advice - asked him to come back.
so more questions:
What do you think is the matter with the Pin no longer rising?
Is it a case of new spring not mounted correct or the possible blockage having moved through circulation?
He did tell me that bypassing the switch meant i would have to make sure that pressure was adequate in the system at all times "otherwise boiler will make lots of racket" but reassured me that the boiler has a backup cut off which means it would switch off if not enough pressure or "overheat".
Is this the case?
what is the initial problem caused by and what can i do to rectify this?
so more questions:
What do you think is the matter with the Pin no longer rising?
Is it a case of new spring not mounted correct or the possible blockage having moved through circulation?
He did tell me that bypassing the switch meant i would have to make sure that pressure was adequate in the system at all times "otherwise boiler will make lots of racket" but reassured me that the boiler has a backup cut off which means it would switch off if not enough pressure or "overheat".
Is this the case?
what is the initial problem caused by and what can i do to rectify this?
M
mysteryman
Possibly the diaphragm in the flowswitch.
When I used to look after Ariston Eurocombis, I got some Grundfos pump bodies machined to 1 inch BSP and fitted them. It couldn't be done with Wilo pump bodies because there wasn't enough metal in the ports.
When I used to look after Ariston Eurocombis, I got some Grundfos pump bodies machined to 1 inch BSP and fitted them. It couldn't be done with Wilo pump bodies because there wasn't enough metal in the ports.
diaphragm in flow switch was changed - plumber brought whole kit - then opened the unit, replaced diaphragm / pin and spring.
(i didnt see if he put diaphragm in a particular position (dont know if this matters) but did put a new one in.
.... so what now?
(i didnt see if he put diaphragm in a particular position (dont know if this matters) but did put a new one in.
.... so what now?
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