OK thanks Woodyoulike. I`m off to have a go at it, nervously. Cheers.
Concrete second floor
- Thread starter vertical fool
- Start date
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Would there be any benefit of laying the foam insulation down and then adding the fibreboards (the niva boards from Ikea)?
The reason I`m thinking of doing this is that the foam will take out the slight uneveness and the undulations (probably a max of 2mm, maybe 2.5mm in the odd place, I think I`ve filled everything that has been over 3mm but am having trouble filling any further as I just seem to create further undulations in another spot). I`m then thinkung that with the foam absorbing the ridges and the undulations that the fibreboards will sit nicely on top creating a much more level surface. What do you think?
The reason I`m thinking of doing this is that the foam will take out the slight uneveness and the undulations (probably a max of 2mm, maybe 2.5mm in the odd place, I think I`ve filled everything that has been over 3mm but am having trouble filling any further as I just seem to create further undulations in another spot). I`m then thinkung that with the foam absorbing the ridges and the undulations that the fibreboards will sit nicely on top creating a much more level surface. What do you think?
Could work. Foam underlayment isn't that expansive, so you could give it a 'dry' try and see what happens. If it works, then relay the boards and glue the T&G's together.
I`ve got underway, just using the foam to see how it goes.
Do you have any tips for getting the next row of wood in (I`m using engineered wood with a click system)?
I`m having a little trouble getting it to click/lock into place. I`m seating it in the position for locking, then going along it (5 matre length) knocking in the pieces that aren`t sitting flush but this seems to knock them out at the other end! I`ve got five rows in so I`m assuming there straight.
The boards themselves aren`t great quality (B&Q ones, theres something else for you to smirk about, WYL)! so I`m checking the edges quickly for bits sticking out.
So any help or tips?
Thanks
Vertical
Do you have any tips for getting the next row of wood in (I`m using engineered wood with a click system)?
I`m having a little trouble getting it to click/lock into place. I`m seating it in the position for locking, then going along it (5 matre length) knocking in the pieces that aren`t sitting flush but this seems to knock them out at the other end! I`ve got five rows in so I`m assuming there straight.
The boards themselves aren`t great quality (B&Q ones, theres something else for you to smirk about, WYL)! so I`m checking the edges quickly for bits sticking out.
So any help or tips?
Thanks
Vertical
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Will you people never learn ? 
B&Q AND click-system, tch tch tch.
Click-systems are a definite pain and only add 'value' to the manufacturer. If you have a very straight and forward room (straight walls, no fireplaces or baywindows and coves and only one door) they save time (but you still have to cut of the click-bit from the last row to fit it neatly to the wall). And if you have to 'dry-run' a part of the room or have to remove a bit already installed nine times out of ten the click-bit will damage beyond re-use.
We're glad to notice that more and more proper wood-engineered manufacturers are re-introducing the normal T&G system, still works a treat, saves time and money.
But back to your questions, if your first five rows are indeed clicked in your rows are straight and you just have to carry on (regardless)
Don't have any more practical tips I'm afraid, due to lack (fortunately) of experience with this rubbish.
B&Q AND click-system, tch tch tch.
Click-systems are a definite pain and only add 'value' to the manufacturer. If you have a very straight and forward room (straight walls, no fireplaces or baywindows and coves and only one door) they save time (but you still have to cut of the click-bit from the last row to fit it neatly to the wall). And if you have to 'dry-run' a part of the room or have to remove a bit already installed nine times out of ten the click-bit will damage beyond re-use.
We're glad to notice that more and more proper wood-engineered manufacturers are re-introducing the normal T&G system, still works a treat, saves time and money.
But back to your questions, if your first five rows are indeed clicked in your rows are straight and you just have to carry on (regardless
) Don't have any more practical tips I'm afraid, due to lack (fortunately) of experience with this rubbish.
Thanks WoodYouLike.
I`ve nearly finished the living room, I`m just at the doorway, so lessthan four pieces to go in.
Somehow my calculations have gone haywire, I was expexted to be finishing with around 90 mm of board as I cut the first boards in half to result in this. But I`m left with around a 30 mm strip, AAARRGGGGHHH, So I think I`m just going to have to cut this and glue it in place as I would have had to with the 90 mm piece.
Do you think I will have any problems with this?
Thanks
Vertical
I`ve nearly finished the living room, I`m just at the doorway, so lessthan four pieces to go in.
Somehow my calculations have gone haywire, I was expexted to be finishing with around 90 mm of board as I cut the first boards in half to result in this. But I`m left with around a 30 mm strip, AAARRGGGGHHH, So I think I`m just going to have to cut this and glue it in place as I would have had to with the 90 mm piece.
Do you think I will have any problems with this?
Thanks
Vertical
Ouchvertical fool said:
Never do that. Only if you are installing in a very small room where it wouldn't look correct if you ended up with a half strip, otherwise, just start with a full board on the first row. Nine out of ten times furniture will be placed on it anyway. Leave the glued board as long as possible to bond properly and don't walk on it (try not to walk on it it should be) for a few hours. It will be the 'weakest'link in your floor, but forewarned = double careful?
Thanks WYL.
How do office chairs with the five wheel bases get on with engineered wood. Judging from my lounge I may carry it on into my spare bedroom (office/computer room)?
Vertical
How do office chairs with the five wheel bases get on with engineered wood. Judging from my lounge I may carry it on into my spare bedroom (office/computer room)?
Vertical
We use a kind of hard plastic mat (don't know the correct phrase, will look it up for you) on the wooden floor where the office chair moves to prevent excess wearing of the finish layer (or damages where the wheels are not exactly 'round')vertical fool said:
Exactly!
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