Condensate pipe

[dilalio]

Don’t know what the dog ate yesterday but her arse sure needs an air break

Edit: make that “brake”

 

[heatservice]

Don’t know what the dog ate yesterday but her arse sure needs an air break

Edit: make that “brake”

The number to call is: 0800111999

 

[Mopasgas]

Download a copy of installations instructions for your boiler ,there will be a series of diagrams showing the requirements for connecting and routing condensate to waste,It will give you the dooose and dooont's to discuss with your friendly gas eng. Boilers condesate can be up 800 litres of mild nitric acid every year ( MBS.co.uk)

 

[Spark123]

I have had a look at the original installation manual for the boiler, it says my boiler (Vaillant ecotec pro 28) doesn’t have a built in siphon hence any outdoor pipe work should be 32mm min and lagged where exposed. Just my luck!!

 

[John D v2.0]

Siphon and trap are two different things. And air break is yet another. Siphon is like a toilet flush, just released it all in one go. Trap just stops the air getting past. Syphon just stops the pipe freezing due to making an icicle in the pipe. Air break is after the trap to allow air in and out to stop the trap getting pressure from afterwards.

 

[heatservice]

I have had a look at the original installation manual for the boiler, it says my boiler (Vaillant ecotec pro 28) doesn’t have a built in siphon hence any outdoor pipe work should be 32mm min and lagged where exposed. Just my luck!!

You still have a condense trap, the auto syphon type can & do still freeze up in extreme cold weather, the drfference is a standard trap will dribble where as the auto syphon flushes a small amount in one go the theory being its less likely to freeze that way.

 

[Gigglepin]

Technically it is part of the flue as stated but your boiler should have a condense trap so no products of combustion should be able to pass the trap, that said I have worked with engineers who have shut down boiler as unsafe for no other reason than a small drip from a joint in the condense waste.

Think this heatservice guys only one with any sense on here

 

[Dan Robinson]

Think this heatservice guys only one with any sense on here

Pahahahahaahah

 

[BWC]

Pahahahahaahah

What’s funny dan ? I agree with the above poster, a lot of your engineers on here don’t look at things with any logic you just read your manuals

 

[bernardgreen]

any outdoor pipe work should be 32mm min and lagged where exposed. Just my luck!!

A larger diameter pipe means there is a larger surface area and hence more heat loss, the liquid will cool faster. The "reason" for using a larger diamter pipe might be tthat there will be a larger volume to fill with frozen condensate before the boiler has to shut down. This allows more time for the cold weather to end and the pipe thaw out.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Is that so? You think this forum is the pinnacle of professional contributions on this site?

 

[bernardgreen]

This was used to prevent a slow trinkle of water from freezing in a long external pipe.

The air pump was an aquarium air pump. The air was warm air from inside the building. It was not necessary to heat the air though in more severe weather heating the air might have been necessary.

 

[bernardgreen]

a lot of your engineers on here don’t look at things with any logic you just read your manuals

Is that so? You think this forum is the pinnacle of professional contributions on this site?

No doubt the pinnacle is inside the Combustion Chamber and out of sight of the general DIYer on this forum.

From personnal experience I have to agree with BWC, many "engineers" ( gas and other trades ) in service to the general public do little more than read the manuals and / or the regulations. Logical analysis of the reality in front of them seems to be beyond them.

 

[BWC]

I used to have a supervisor much the same , I used to fix his c0ck ups regularly. He loved manuals more then his wife I think !

 

[BWC]

Pahahahahaahah

I also think you need to up your game dan , are your manuals up to date .