Connecting sockets to an immersion circuit

That's about right, Ban. (He says, slowly & grudgingly.......)

:LOL:
 
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ban-all-sheds said:
Albert said:
quote]
It would, IMHO, be imperative to label the MCB "Immersion heater and sockets in loft & small bedroom". Also, one could interpret 314-01-01 to mean that there should be independent socket circuits on the same floor...
Your HO, is always appreciated, I have done what I could and labeled everywhere including on the 13A spur; where it feeds from.

dealing with my hot water, I discovered a new thing that I would like to check (part 2 of my electrician's immersion story):
the gas boilers are connected to a standard 13A socket (I think for the control and the spark), I don't think that the load is a problem here but the connection using a plug to a switched socket...
any more HO's?
Albert
 
AFAIK the load of a gas boiler for control & ignition is tiny, so as long as the fuse in the plug is an appropriate size, I don't see a problem. You've got the same range of fusing options available for a plug as you have an FCU.

Personally I think that using plug/socket for a fixed appliance is inelegant, but there's nothing wrong with it. Most people's TVs sit in one place for years on end, and nobody gives a second thought to using a plug for them. Despite what I said, I'd never consider wiring my TV into an FCU.
 
ban-all-sheds said:
AFAIK the load of a gas boiler for control & ignition is tiny, so as long as the fuse in the plug is an appropriate size, I don't see a problem. You've got the same range of fusing options available for a plug as you have an FCU.
As I said I'm not worried about the load...
Personally I think that using plug/socket for a fixed appliance is inelegant, but there's nothing wrong with it. Most people's TVs sit in one place for years on end, and nobody gives a second thought to using a plug for them. Despite what I said, I'd never consider wiring my TV into an FCU.
The only problem that I see with a plug socket connection is that, it can be easily disconnected, and unlike TV it might be very inconvenient (no hot water), what kind of connection would you use instead of plug and socket?
Thanks, Albert
[/quote]
 
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normal practice for a boiler control system would be to use a FCU with a 3A fuse

a plug and socket is inelegent but does have one possible advantage which is it allows easier connection to a generator or inverter in the event of a sustained power cut
 
Gas heating systems are limited to max 3A current. Why? I don't know, but they are. As plug says, usually a DP FCU is used, but I have seen plenty of plug/socket arrangements.

For my money, I would use a switched FCU with 3A fuse.
 
For my money, I would use a switched FCU with 3A fuse.
i'll do it for my money as well... ;) why it needs to be switched, I can understand the basic reason of cutting the power to the boiler, but using a switched unit will still leave us with the possibility that someone will accidentally turn it off..
Thanks
 
For heavens sake Albert - just how inattentive and absent minded are the people in your house?
 
It has to be isolatable through both poles with a minimum of 3mm for maintenance purposes.

If it cannot be safely isolated in both poles, your service engineer would walk out of the door.

As I'm sure Breezer would have said if he were here. Come back you selfish b*g*er!!
 
ban-all-sheds said:
For heavens sake Albert - just how inattentive and absent minded are the people in your house?
As I understand you are in the business for a while now.. You should know that if there is a possibility to do something wrong, someone will do it, sometimes with good intention (how about 2 little children ...?). So I'm just checking all the options... I did not change a thing yet, just listening...

securespark Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 12:25 am Post Subject:
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It has to be isolatable through both poles with a minimum of 3mm for maintenance purposes.
If it cannot be safely isolated in both poles, your service engineer would walk out of the door.
As I'm sure Breezer would have said if he were here. Come back you selfish b*g*er!!

This makes sense, just explain what do you mean by 'with a minimum of 3mm'
Albert
 
Albert said:
if there is a possibility to do something wrong, someone will do it, sometimes with good intention (how about 2 little children ...?)
Where is the boiler? Kitchens and garages are the favourite places, and small children should never EVER be left unacommpanied in either place, not even for a second, and you should have gates and door catches to prevent them getting in.

But that's by the by. Somewhere, somehow you need a means of isolation, which means a way for someone to flick a switch or pull out a plug. There is no getting round that, so you just have to train people not to do it inadvertently.
 
All DP switches have a minimum distance of 3mm between contacts when open.
 
So if it is a standard thing, when buying one I don't need to mention it.
thanks
Albert
 

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