Conservatory foundatios.

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There is no problem with the building being eccentric on these foundations.
 
noseall";p="867852 said:
tipping is extremely unlikely with mass fill foundations. plus a connie is a lot lighter than a two storey extension.

you would only have to lose a few inches in order to centre it on the foundation so what's the problem?

Call me old fashioned, but I do expect that I will get the size of building I pay for, give or take 30mm or so.
As long as the wall can sit on the outside of the footings in one or two places, with no danger of tipping, it should be OK.
 
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Builders tend to work to the nearest 1/2 brick, and not to a 1/10000 inch feeler guage.

It must be a common thing with engineering guys, but I have done a few jobs for engineers who have expected wall/joints/roofs you name it, to be built to mm accuracy.

With splayed conservatories, you can get some ugly perp joints or some horrible brick cuts if you work to dimensions and not bricks
 
Builders tend to work to the nearest 1/2 brick, and not to a 1/10000 inch feeler guage.

It must be a common thing with engineering guys, but I have done a few jobs for engineers who have expected wall/joints/roofs you name it, to be built to mm accuracy.

With splayed conservatories, you can get some ugly perp joints or some horrible brick cuts if you work to dimensions and not bricks

I can see your argument Woody, but if a building is designed to be a certain size, does this not already take this into account? In other words, a given wall will be of so many bricks length?

If not why not? It's not exactly rocket science. A colleague who recently completed a complex extension with a domed glass roof, worked it all out to the millimetre, and is only 20mm out in any direction. However, he did act as his own site manager, and checked all measurements himself.
 
an architect may measure a run of bricks on the existing building as a reference for setting out the extension brickwork. his dimensions may be set to this gauge.

the modern equivalent brick may be 2-3 mm bigger or smaller than the existing. this could make adhering to the drawing difficult without using closures.

ugly and time consuming. :evil:

as would using excessively large or small perp's. :evil:

i would rather walk away from a job, than build an extension to the millimeter, if it meant making the brickwork look shot.
 
an architect may measure a run of bricks on the existing building as a reference for setting out the extension brickwork. his dimensions may be set to this gauge.

the modern equivalent brick may be 2-3 mm bigger or smaller than the existing. this could make adhering to the drawing difficult without using closures.
.

Sounds reasonable, do bricks of the same type vary so much in size? Certainly I can see your point about the finished wall looking right, which is certainly what I am hoping for.
 
a modern brick as opposed to an older version of the same make, or a different manufacturer can produce bricks that vary in size. bricks of the same make can vary too, depending upon kiln firing exposure and shrinkage.

generally speaking, there is no reason why you cannot have the exact size you wish, but if it means pinching a half brick to make the bond work then so be it.



if i was given the choice between losing 50mm or having ugly brickwork...... :rolleyes: ;)
 
... but if a building is designed to be a certain size, does this not already take this into account? In other words, a given wall will be of so many bricks length?

If not why not? It's not exactly rocket science.

Of course any building can be built to a given size - and if the designer has done his job, then the building will have been designed with standard masonry units, frame sizes, and known brick tolerances in mind.

And therefore buildings should be built to the specified dimensions.

On longer runs, slack is taken up in the mortar joints to make the length work bricks, or cuts are hidden in corners or beneath the centre of openings. Or reverse bond is used

In some circumstances the internal dimensions are the crucial factor

But in your situation, you have an [octagonal] shape with little scope to adjust the distance between the wall ends, and nowhere to hide a cut brick.

So in your case, then the most important factor is to make the wall work bricks.

More specifically to work facing bricks - as often a building is set out in engineering bricks, only to find that the facing bricks are slightly different in size
 
But in your situation, you have an [octagonal] shape with little scope to adjust the distance between the wall ends, and nowhere to hide a cut brick.

So in your case, then the most important factor is to make the wall work bricks.

When you say 'make the wall work bricks,' I assume you mean that the finished wall should have a good looking brick run, preferably complete bricks. In this case I can see the logic of your argument, and can see the difficulty with this shape. (Perhaps I'll wish I'd chosen an oblong
one !)

The new building team arrived today, and although I only spent ten minutes with them, I was impressed that they seem well up to the job.

Watch this space.
 

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