Controlling a socket from an accessible location

[Jupiter01]

Yes you could extend the RFC cables to sockets in the back of the units. You'd need some odd faceplates (for strain relief for the flexes going into the original socket backbox), you can use terminal block in that location (provided they're enclosed) since it is accessible, use Wagos if you like but again enclosed.

Will this approach affect any subsequent continuity/resistance testing?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Aren't they self enclosed if I have been diligent in ensuring that no copper is sticking out of the connector?

An interesting thought.

The regulations state that joints must be in an enclosure.

Definitions:

Enclosure. "A part providing protection of equipment against certain external influences and in any direction
providing basic protection."

Basic protection. "Protection against electric shock under fault-free conditions."
NOTE: For low voltage installations, systems and equipment, basic protection generally corresponds to protection against direct contact, that is “contact of persons or livestock with live parts”.


Of course, if "maintenance-free" is required that entails other considerations.

 

[Jupiter01]

Of course, if "maintenance-free" is required that entails other considerations.

I have assumed that this will need to be maintenance free as the kitchen units will be in front of the wago connectors which will be sandwiched between the unit and the wall. to that end, I was planning on using Wagos and now these enclosures too.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I have assumed that this will need to be maintenance free as the kitchen units will be in front of the wago connectors which will be sandwiched between the unit and the wall. to that end, I was planning on using Wagos and now these enclosures too.

Ah, I thought the Wagos would be going in the original socket backboxes (which would pass as accessible if the appliances aren't nailed down)

 

[Jupiter01]

All the kitchen points are currently metal sockets on the plaster with each end of the ring cable poking out.
My plan is to extend these cables so they are dropping down to the floor. The kitchen units can then be fitted and I can then reach under the plinth to thread the cables through a kitchen unit and mount a socket on a patress box inside here. We can then plug the appliances into this socket.

A bit more detail: in the metal box, I am planning to fix a wago box. This will join the current ring tails to the longer length which will dangle behind the unit and down to the floor.

Can I please have some comment/feedback on this.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ericmark]

The ring final is a really good system, however it needs to be a ring, so testing is important, although one can test from the consumer unit, most DIY people don't want to go into the CU, you can test at any socket the ring is intact, but to ensure the socket you test is OK really you should test the loop impedance.

The problem with DIY is an insulation tester, loop impedance tester, and RCD tester are expensive bits of test kit, this is why many electricians advise using radials rather than ring finals.

When one fills in the installation or minor works certificate it acts as a good check list, they are a free down load from IET web site. I have used maintenance free connectors since 1980 when I first came across them in Algeria of all places, and they do work, but so do wiring nuts and I hate them things. Personally I use crimps if I must join cables, but try as much as possible not to have joints except at devices.

The is a Wiki on safe routes, but it is common sense, we expect cables to go up/down a wall to a device, we don't expect it to go around any corners although horizontal is permitted.

However much I don't like extension leads, I find often no option, the only one to be very careful about is the supply to refrigeration units, these are likely damaged if volt drop too much, most say on the instructions not to use extension leads.

 

[Jupiter01]

Personally I use crimps if I must join cables, but try as much as possible not to have joints except at devices.

What do you mean by joins at devices?
Joins are unavoidable in my situation as I want to situate sockets inside the cabinets. Currently, we have a short stub of the cables sticking out of the metal socket in the wall. I am proposing to use wagos inside a wago box. I will also screw the wago box to the metal socket.

 

[ericmark]

What do you mean by joins at devices?

If you joint within the wall the joint really needs to be water proof, if a wall gets wet, finding a wet joint box is rather hard, I know the idea is maintenance free does not need access, but this house a three core and earth cable goes from the old programmer location to the boiler and changes colours from red, yellow, blue to brown, black, grey and one core is open circuit, I have no idea where, some where behind plaster, so I use a 12 volt thermostat/programmer instead of mains just in case the problem is some where near the surface.

Where the programmer was, there is now a blanking plate, so one can see where the thermostat wires join the old programmer wires.

To use crimps within a epoxy lined shrink sleeve, or epoxy filled box OK, but in the main push in connectors are too big to use shrink. You can fill box with Petroleum Jelly, that is better than air, as it means no room for water, and expansion and contraction is unlikely to draw water into the joint.

It is simple common sense. But don't use grease as it can be conductive, best is proper re-enter-able compound.