Conventional boiler - no hot running water but heating fine

[prophet]

From my position of heating and plumping ignorance it seems arguable that the control box is in one of the three acceptable positions as it sits on the topside of the pump.
It's just that the whole unit is upside down.

 

[fixitflav]

From my position of heating and plumping ignorance it seems arguable that the control box is in one of the three acceptable positions as it sits on the topside of the pump.
It's just that the whole unit is upside down.

No, it's not a question of being upside down, the control box should not be at the bottom (though it clearly hasn't given a problem). The pump body has to be the right way round for the flow direction, but it could easily have been fitted correctly - remove the Allen bolts and rotate to any of the other 3 positions. It could still be put right, just need to close the valves first.

 

[gas112]

leave it alone

 

[prophet]

Ha ha. No worries on that score.
I have absolutely no intention of touching anything else.

 

[stem]

The problem comes in the event of a leak, and water falls into the terminal box causing random tripping of the electrics. Very difficult to spot if the leak is small and water remains in the terminal enclosure. Also, due to the heat, the water can dry up so when a sparkie comes to try and find the fault he can't, because it's gone. It can end up being very time consuming and expensive to find the cause.

Hence why the diagram shows the terminal box shouldn't be below the pump. Very lazy of the installer to put it in like that, at the time of installation it would have taken a couple of minutes to remove the 4 allen head screws and rotate the pump head 180 degrees.

As @fixitflav said, to do that now you would need to isolate the pump using the valves at each side of it, so probably a 5 to 10 minute job. (this is a DIY forum ) Unless, the valves don't close off fully in which case the system would need to be part drained, so take a little longer.