Converted to combi now poor heating ??

pannierstan said:
I cannot believe that you have put up with this for a year! and what did it take for him to convince you that "this is how they work" rubbish.

I will tell you now he has got the configuration of the pipes wrong. The combi should have been connected to the central heating flow from the old 3 way valve in the airing cupboard and then to the PRIMARY return after all the other radiator and hot water cylinder returns had come back.

Is the new combi situated where the old boiler was?
If so then he will have only needed to alter a few pipes in the airing cupboard to isolate the cylinder and the header tanks. Job done.

As Tony said you have inadvertantly employed a lemon.

Was he the cheapest or cheaper quote by any chance :idea:

Stan

Is there an easy way to test / check for this situation ??
 
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As a bystander to all this, I'd be curious to see some photos of all the pipe changes that your installer made.
 
Softus said:
As a bystander to all this, I'd be curious to see some photos of all the pipe changes that your installer made.

http://www.scotcu.co.uk/pipes.JPG <- website has nothing to do with pipes just space I found to show config of pipes within cupboard

pipe that leaves top of pic goes to tank up loft. Do not think pictures show much.
 
Had another look ... the two 22mm pipes that are joined back to each other seem to be the live and return from the boiler, half way up the pipe duct just above boiler is two tees with 15mm pipes they in turn have another tee and feeds upstairs radiators and down and I suppose supply the radiators down stairs, I suppose under the floor upstairs will have tees to feed upstairs radiators ... correct me if I am wrong but would water not take the easiest way and this would surely be up the 22mm to drying cupboard then back to boiler via return pipe as it would be the shortest route although height would obviously cause resistance it would be less than via radiators ??? would a valve on the 22mm pipe cause enough resistance to force water round system or should I expect a bang lol or what if I stopped 22mm going upstairs and connected directly to the tees would this cut out the bye pass effect or am I barking up wrong tree..
 
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puuma2 said:
Softus said:
As a bystander to all this, I'd be curious to see some photos of all the pipe changes that your installer made.

http://www.scotcu.co.uk/pipes.JPG <- website has nothing to do with pipes just space I found to show config of pipes within cupboard

pipe that leaves top of pic goes to tank up loft. Do not think pictures show much.

If I left pipe work like this then I would have cut my wrists by now :eek:
 
puuma2 said:
Had another look ... the two 22mm pipes that are joined back to each other seem to be the live and return from the boiler, half way up the pipe duct just above boiler is two tees with 15mm pipes they in turn have another tee and feeds upstairs radiators and down and I suppose supply the radiators down stairs, I suppose under the floor upstairs will have tees to feed upstairs radiators ... correct me if I am wrong but would water not take the easiest way and this would surely be up the 22mm to drying cupboard then back to boiler via return pipe as it would be the shortest route although height would obviously cause resistance it would be less than via radiators ??? would a valve on the 22mm pipe cause enough resistance to force water round system or should I expect a bang lol or what if I stopped 22mm going upstairs and connected directly to the tees would this cut out the bye pass effect or am I barking up wrong tree..

Would help if you answered my questions fully :rolleyes:
 
Would help if you answered my questions fully : sorry not sure what I missed..

old system had a hot water cylinder with pump next to it and a tri port valve.. we have 7 radiators on system, old boiler was situated in kitchen and new one is too... hot water cylinder was removed from next to these pipes... system was 12 years old and boiler was a glow warm.. not sure what else i can say .. I do appreciate peoples help here though

I did post this earlier maybe it did not post correct... System is 12 years old, boiler was changed from a glow warm cause of noisy fan and I felt no point in replacing due to age of boiler... the heated towel rail is fed from under floor and the 22mm supply pipe runs in same direction so I guess heated towel rail is tee off 22mm as it would seem to make sense.. towel rail would only get warm when central heating part was on, not hot water only if that helps.

never thought much of the towel rail before just know its the warmest place in the house..
 
Something that would be really handy... is if you can make a diagram of all the pipe runs.

The alternative is to find a good heating engineer who can poke about and see what the trouble is, and sort it for you. Best way to find one is through personal recommendation from friends and neighbours, preferably where you can have a look at their work.

You say that the flow and return from the boiler are both very hot, so I picture the heated water as finding a short and easy route back, rather than being forced to circulate all round the house and flow through radiators. If you can follow the hot flow pipe round the house (putting your hand on it to check that it is hot) you will probably find where the easy route is. Looking at your picture I wouldn't be surprised if it was where those two 22mm pipes have been looped together.
 
Basically mate you have had someone out who has made a complete ar#e of fitting your system which with a combi is hard to do.. You have paid him good money and gave him chance to resolve problem so tell him either fix it or you will claim repair price back from him in small claims.. We all make mistakes but we should never leave the customer to deal with them or put up with a wrongly installed system
 
From what you have said the problem is the flow and return have been joined together :eek:

Get yourself a couple of 22mm compression caps and give it a go.

You have nowt to lose ;)


Meant to be like that my arse :evil:
 
Dont't you get the feeling that those two 22mm pipes which have been connected together .......shouldn't have been?! :confused:
 
Not one to butt in but yorkshire fittings, compression joints and the tell tale sign of power flow :LOL: me thinks the installer conforms to my signature.
 
scatmanjohn said:
From what you have said the problem is the flow and return have been joined together :eek:

Get yourself a couple of 22mm compression caps and give it a go.

You have nowt to lose ;)


Meant to be like that my a**e :evil:

Right so what is worst that can happen if I cut and cap off both 22mm pipes am I right in saying system will just close down if its wrong as it would be same as all rads closing yes ? the 22mm loop is the last place I feel heat like that it then its back to the boiler... no where else in house has pipes that warm.
 
you won't even need to cut them, just undo the compression connectors, lift off the loop, and fit stop ends.
 
You don't have to cut the pipe, just undo the two fittings connecting the pipes and fasten the cap ends on to the nut & olive that is left on the pipe.

Don't worry the boiler will soon shut down if there is no flow around the system.

Do you know how to drain the water out of the system first.


What an a b o r t i o n

pipes.JPG
 

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