Also is the current gas pipe feeding the boiler in 15mm or 22?Do you know what sort of pipework you have -is it conventional 22mm ring with 15mm going to radiators, or is it microbore?
Also is the current gas pipe feeding the boiler in 15mm or 22?Do you know what sort of pipework you have -is it conventional 22mm ring with 15mm going to radiators, or is it microbore?
Converting from and open vent (OV) to a sealed system only changes the way the CH system operates so as far as that is concerned nothing - The 2 systems are independent of each other. The small cistern in the attic feeds the CH system, the large one feeds the toilet. You can go to a sealed system without removing the large cistern - which may also be feeding your HW cylinder if you have one.We have a conventional system with tanks in the loft. The bathroom toilet flushes with water from the cold water tank in loft. What would happen if we convert to a sealed system? How would water get in the toilet?
The CH system needs properly serviced and then correctly maintained. Someone with experience of open vented CH systems should be able to sort it out but depending on how long it has been left will determine how much time and funds it will need to return it to proper working order.We currently get a lot of air in our radiators daily which I think is to do with the set up in the loft and sludge. Hoping no underground leak. If there was an underground leak I know a combi would lose pressure overnight. Would a conventional boiler loose pressure too? We never have a problem with our boiler.
22mm. We have no issues with hot water. The hw cylinder heats up pretty quicklythe annual service is only the boiler not the system
old systems get sludge build up and once you get air in the system is accelerates corrosion
Really you need to sort out the system issues -radiators and pipework, whether you have a system boiler or a combi
Do you know what sort of pipework you have -is it conventional 22mm ring with 15mm going to radiators, or is it microbore?
NoDo you have a system filter that you can add inhibitor via.
22Also is the current gas pipe feeding the boiler in 15mm or 22?
Okay, so I reckon the boiler you have currently is a condensing one. What is the model of the current boiler? If I was you I would rectify the problems you are facing right now (an easy job for an average DIYer) and keep the existing system till it breaks down.
Worcester Greenstar RI. Yes condensingOkay, so I reckon the boiler you have currently is a condensing one. What is the model of the current boiler? If I was you I would rectify the problems you are facing right now (an easy job for an average DIYer) and keep the existing system till it breaks down.
I don't see a real reason for you to convert to a combi unless you want to make space, e.g., for a loft conversion. If I was you I would drain down, flush the heating system, check places for leaks e.g., radiator valves and then add a suitable inhibitor.Worcester Greenstar RI. Yes condensing
???As far as changing to a combi is concerned, how many bathrooms/showers/HW outlets would be used @ once.
Two bathrooms and a downstairs toilet
Avoid a combi, it just won't deal with more than one HW outlet at a time comfortably.Two bathrooms and a downstairs toilet
I wouldn't suggest it's leaks outside, rather the system has leaks (only outside leak there would be is if the attic cistern was overflowing and it was running from the attic overflow). Air in the system could also be pumping over, as the system is restricted by corrosion build up and that can introduce air bubbles into the system too. If you are able to get a magnet to stick onto the pipework at the feed and vent then yes the system will have corrosion build up and that can be fixed by either an aggressive cleaner run through it or the section replaced.something to do with the tanks in the loft as when there is a lot of air it leaks outside
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