Cooker connection plate - 3 x 10mm cables?

[securespark]

Err... read my previous but one reply in this thread....

I saw and read your post, for a pair of 10mm2 T&E's the JB would do the trick, but you will not get three in it, hence putting a Henley block inside a plastic adaptable box. The cables can be secured using 25mm Stuffing glands and making sure the adabtable box is out of the way were it cannot suffer interference.

seems a bit heath-robinson to me..

 

[Big_Spark]

I
However, I think a much bigger safety issue would be someone using a 63A MCB unless they already had a good understanding of current and cable ratings!

On this we will never get confused I am pleased to say

I'll try to be a bit clearer when doing these shorter posts in future to avoid any possible misinterpretation..Just becuase I know what I mean, I do take and accept the point you made.

 

[Big_Spark]

seems a bit heath-robinson to me..

I wouldn't go that far, it isn't pretty, nor ideal, but it is a workable solution that would be safe..BUT damned ugly!!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Err... read my previous but one reply in this thread....

I saw and read your post, for a pair of 10mm2 T&E's the JB would do the trick, but you will not get three in it, hence putting a Henley block inside a plastic adaptable box. The cables can be secured using 25mm Stuffing glands and making sure the adabtable box is out of the way were it cannot suffer interference.

Yup - that's what I proposed, a Henley block (and an earth block) inside an adaptable box. Probably metal rather than plastic, and it would end up under the floor in the loft.

But all that was predicated on having to keep 10mm up to the fuse. If it's OK to have short runs of smaller cable going to the FCUs I won't bother with any of that - I'm sure I'll be able to get a 10mm + a 1.0 or 1.5mm into the switch terminals.

 

[Big_Spark]

There should be no problem getting 10mm2 and even 4mm2 cables into the terminals of a 45A cooker switch, so the world is your oyster.

I proposed plastic, ABS whatever as they are largely corrosion proof and therefore better for use under floors or in conditions which may be subject to moisture or regular and sharp changes in temperature.

Metal does give greater mechanical protection though.

I suppose you could go mad and splash out on an IPX4 rated enclosure..if your minted that is

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Well, in my case it's the 45/50A pull-switch for the shower, but the principle is the same.

An IP56 box with plenty of room is only a tenner or so if I wanted to go that route. I was favouring metal in case I was fitting a SWA gland, but I guess that as long as I don't wave the box around after it's attached I'd be OK.

 

[securespark]

Yeah, agreed, FWL.....uglier than my cat's b*m-h**e!!!!

 

[Big_Spark]

Yeah, agreed, FWL.....uglier than my cat's b*m-h**e!!!!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Oh come on, they're not that bad...

 

[Plot1]

Taking advantage of the IEE reg that allows two appliances to be wired to a single cooker switch (both within 2m of the switch), I now have my 10mm cable neatly buried beneath the plaster...

=======|Switch|======|outlet|=====|outlet|

...but now can't locate a cooker outlet plate with large enough terminals to accept 3 x 10mm cable

It's taken 6 months, but my orginal problem is now solved in a way that I'd be happy to repeat again.

The solution was to connect each core of the wire-in and wire-out to a Pratley End Connector together with a third single core cable which connects to the back of the outlet plate. All can be eased into the patress box behind the outlet.

Thanks for the interesting replies and suggestions!

http://www.cable-connectors.co.uk/Pratley_Accessories_1.html

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What size did you need to get 3 x 10mm² in?

Do all 3 go in one end, or 2 in one end and 1 in the other? - is that black sleeve open at both ends or closed at one?

What keeps the sleeve in place? Is it heat shrink, or filled with epoxy?

 

[Plot1]

What size did you need to get 3 x 10mm² in?

Do all 3 go in one end, or 2 in one end and 1 in the other? - is that black sleeve open at both ends or closed at one?

What keeps the sleeve in place? Is it heat shrink, or filled with epoxy?

Size 2 is fine; all 3 go in are held in the metal clamp - the black sleeve is open 1 end only (and about 45mm long).

I did consider filling it with epoxy, but there is really no need - within the confines of a patress box there is no chance of the sleeve getting loose. Incidentally, it was a 45mm deep box...

 

[mackeral]

Guys, so long as the Spur (FCU) is within VISUAL distance, or no more than 300mm of the originating device, it can be fed in cable commensurate to the outgoing load.

IE..you can run 1.5 or 2.5 from the output side of the switches concerned so long as the FCU is within 300mm of the switch.

quote]

FWL - where did you get this info from?

 

[AdamW]

Unfortunately FWL_Engineer no long posts on this board. However, his interpretation of the regs always appeared very good so I doubt you will have problems following his advice. He is a CEng with the IEE if I recall.

What he writes appears to make sense to me: FCUs only take up to 13A fuses. For these short distances from the accessory on the ring to the FCU, 1.5mm will be adequate. In a short circuit, the disconnect time would be quick enough that the breaker trips before the cable is damaged.

I'm not an electrician, but I think I would stick with the rule of wiring in the same size as the originating circuit though.

However, if you need clarification may I suggest starting a new thread?