Cooker Switch - Correcting dangerous wiring.

[tyqtywtyqt]

Hello all!

I currently have a 6mm 30a cooker connection that powers a hob and has one socket on it. The issue I have is that the isolation switch and socket is in a cupboard and, wait for it, behind a built in microwave!!

I have told my partner its unsafe as you cant isolate the feed in an emergency!

So I want to correct it and want to make sure what I am doing will be correct.

1. I am going to remove the switch and replace it with a 30amp junction box.
2. Connect a new piece of 6mm cable straight down (in trunking) to under the wall unit.
3. Connect a new isolation switch on the wall which is now visible.
4. Continue the run down to meet the hob connection plate.

Now my dilemma is the microwave will then need to be plugged in next to the isolation switch.

Is it possible to:

Connect a fused connection unit next to the isolation switch. I would purchase an isolation switch without a socket as to not overload. Then run 6mm to the fcu the n 2.5mm to an unswitched socket behind the microwave.

Does my plan fit within guidelines? I am competent in making connections and wiring just would like to make sure all work I am doing would be the best solution. Any other ways to make my life easier would be appreciated!

Thanks

 

[Iggifer]

Where does the microwave plug in currently?

If you're planning on feeding the microwave from the hob circuit with the alterations - you may as well leave the existing one (if it has a socket, if not, use one with a socket)

Then replace the load cable from existing cooker switch to the new switch and continue as you were planning.

Unless you can see the cable, you don't need trunking, you can just clip it to the wall.

Hager (50A) and MK (32A) make cooker switches that fit a single box if that helps keep the new stuff looking a bit tidier.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Technicalities:

There is no requirement for a local isolation switch - used for disconnection and maintenance.

IF you consider an emergency switch necessary (not everyone does) for a hob then indeed it should be readily accessible and your doubts are genuine.


Good answer from Iggifer.

 

[tyqtywtyqt]

Microwave currently plugs in to cooker isolation switch socket on 30amp circuit.

So rather than have a junction box just have two switches?

Consumer unit (30a) ----6mm--- cooker switch with microwave plug ---- 6mm ----- Single gang MK32a switch ----6mm---- Connection point for hob.

 

[Iggifer]

Yup, that's your best I reckon. The switch you want is MK K5105

 

[endecotp]

The switch ought to be far enough away from the stove that if, for example, a chip pan catches fire, you don't have to reach over, around, or anywhere near the burning stove to turn it off.

I think that leaving the kitchen, closing the door behind you, and turning off at the consumer unit is the safest option in many cases.

 

[tyqtywtyqt]

The switch will be about a meter away under the wall cabinet. near the exit door. As the consumer unit is on the wall the other side of the hob (I'm dreading to think what other stupid wiring design is in this house!) a switch makes sense and wiring will now be very easy and hardly noticeable!

I expect I will be back on this forum with more problems soon! Thanks for the help!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

IF you consider an emergency switch necessary (not everyone does) for a hob then indeed it should be readily accessible.

And has to comply with a number of regulations which apply to emergency switches.