Cooker switch

[angelboy]

It looks like my cooker is connected via a fused switch where a double socket at either end is attached.

I'd previously had a 13a switch which kept blowing (clearly!) so what do I replace it with?

Is there any reason I can't put in a 45a cooker switch in?

I bought one of these but it's clearly the wrong type - https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-1-gang-45a-dp-cooker-switch-brushed-stainless-steel/1336p

Is this the right one - https://www.screwfix.com/p/varilight-2-gang-45a-dp-cooker-switch-satin-chrome/8473h



Also, does this section of earth need taping up?


I connected a new white socket, which worked, but when I screwed it down and turned on the electrics it blew the socket. The cables are really hard to push back in - what's the solution?



I'm waiting for an electrician to come out but it's been 2 weeks now and I need to make sure it's all working for Christmas of course!

 

[EFLImpudence]

It looks like the FCU is on the socket circuit so no, you can't swap it for a 45A switch.

The earth wire needs connecting to the back box terminal in the bottom right corner.

Is it a cooker or just an oven?
Cookers cannot be connected to the socket circuit. Do you have a cooker circuit marked on the consumer unit.

Best advice is wait for the electrician. Christmas is unimportant.

 

[angelboy]

It looks like the FCU is on the socket circuit so no, you can't swap it for a 45A switch.

The earth wire needs connecting to the back box terminal in the bottom right corner.

Is it a cooker or just an oven?
Cookers cannot be connected to the socket circuit. Do you have a cooker circuit marked on the consumer unit.

Best advice is wait for the electrician. Christmas is unimportant.

It's just an oven (double range type).

If this is the case then would a 13a switch work? I ask this because since we upgraded the oven we haven't been able to use both side simultaneously as it'll blow the fuse. Also, the same socket circuit powers the kettle and the microwave so sometimes it'll blow when they're all being used at the same time.

My concern is that if it's replaced with a 13a switch then the same thing is going to keep happening. Could I then use a 20a instead or is that asking for trouble?

 

[JohnD]

It's just an oven (double range type)

you mean it has no hob? So do you have a gas hob, or a separate electric hob fed from some other circuit?

By double range do you mean it has two (or more) ovens (?plus a grill?) That can't bed fed from 13A

How old is the house?

Why do you think it hasn't got a cooker circuit?

 

[angelboy]

you mean it has no hob? So do you have a gas hob, or an electric hob fed from some other circuit?

By double range do you mean it has two (or more) ovens (?plus a grill?) That can't bed fed from 13A

It's a dual fuel range (Rangemaster Elan) with a lpg gas top, an electric grill and two ovens.

 

[JohnD]

an electric grill and two ovens.

Then it needs a dedicated cooker circuit.

Also, the same socket circuit powers the kettle and the microwave so sometimes it'll blow when they're all being used at the same time.

yep, it definitely does.

Start saving up.

Have you got any spare tiles to make good with?

How old is your consumer unit? Show us a pic

ta

 

[EFLImpudence]

If this is the case then would a 13a switch work?

No, you must have a fuse on the socket circuit.

I ask this because since we upgraded the oven we haven't been able to use both side simultaneously as it'll blow the fuse.
Also, the same socket circuit powers the kettle and the microwave so sometimes it'll blow when they're all being used at the same time.

That's why they are there - safety devices to disconnect the supply before the cables melt.

My concern is that if it's replaced with a 13a switch then the same thing is going to keep happening. Could I then use a 20a instead or is that asking for trouble?

No you cannot do anything apart from just use one side at a time.

There might be a proper cooker circuit behind the oven. Do you have a label stating cooker on your consumer unit - 30A or 32A. Picture?

 

[angelboy]

Then it needs a dedicated cooker circuit.

yep, it definitely does.

Start saving up.

Have you got any spare tiles to make good with?

How old is your consumer unit? Show us a pic

ta

No, you must have a fuse on the socket circuit.


That's why they are there - safety devices to disconnect the supply before the cables melt.


No you cannot do anything apart from just use one side at a time.

There might be a proper cooker circuit behind the oven. Do you have a label stating cooker on your consumer unit - 30A or 32A. Picture?

 

[JohnD]

aha, so it says you have a cooker circuit. Turn off that breaker and see what stops working.

For example in my kitchen I have two cooker circuits, one on each side of the room, and I currently use one of them for a freezer.

With luck you will have a switch and outlet, perhaps hidden behind a cupboard or other appliance.

Though the is a risk the circuit might have been taken for some other purpose, such as a shed or electric shower.

 

[angelboy]

aha, so it says you have a cooker circuit. Turn off that breaker and see what stops working.

For example in my kitchen I have two cooker circuits, one on each side of the room, and I currently use one of them for a freezer.

With luck you will have a switch and outlet, perhaps hidden behind a cupboard or other appliance.

Though the is a risk the circuit might have been taken for some other purpose, such as a shed or electric shower.

I don't think it's there anymore. Nothing happens when I turn it off. Whilst we were remodelling the kitchen the first electrician we had tore out a load of cable where the cooker used to be and I went mental with him as I still wanted power to that side of the kitchen. After I booted him off the job the next electrician I think was just making the best of a bad job.

I don't think my wife would be too happy for us to be ripping off tiles and digging out hidden cable. I just want a quick fix. If that means putting a 13a fused switch back in and just using one side of the oven then that'll do for the time being. I'm definitely not going to start messing around this close to Christmas.

So I guess I'll wait for the electrician and just get him to change the fused switch.

 

[winston1]

There is no quick fix. Electricity can be dangerous and it needs to be done properly.

 

[AndyPRK]

It looks like my cooker is connected via a fused switch where a double socket at either end is attached.

People on here often say the fusing down stream is
adequate


Therefore 2 plugs (each with 13A fuses), the worse case designed load is 26A.
This is fine for a 2.5mm cable rated at 27A.

Therefore I think it would be acceptable to use a 45A switch.

In case of a short circuit the 32A MCB will trip quicker than a 13A fuse.


However it would be interesting whether 2 plugs are in this double socket?
And whether someone has put a 13A plug on an oven that shouldn't. (buts its fuse isn't blowing is it?)