Correct Bayonet fitting for hob

Look you're really making this a great deal more complex than it needs to be. You and I both know that Bulding Regs and Gas Safety Installation and Use Regulations have little or nothing to say about the job in hand.

I appreiciae that gas is tricky stuff but please don't kid me that my plumber has an encyclopaedic knowldge of these several weighty statutory instruments and that this is his skill above say - engineering know-how and common-sense
 
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misternomer said:
Look you're really making this a great deal more complex than it needs to be. You and I both know that Bulding Regs and Gas Safety Installation and Use Regulations have little or nothing to say about the job in hand.

I appreiciae that gas is tricky stuff but please don't kid me that my plumber has an encyclopaedic knowldge of these several weighty statutory instruments and that this is his skill above say - engineering know-how and common-sense

Now you really are proving us your an idiot....too many loud explosions have got to you. :LOL:

The doccuments contain all the correct procedures to fit a gas hob and yes I know its hard to believe but registered gas installers do have an encyclopedic knowledge of them - we do gas work everyday in case you wondered.

Stop trying to justify your illegal work by patronising the regulars on here.
 
Listen - I didn't mean to patronise anyone and if I did then I apologise unreservedly.

I'm just a guy trying to make the last connection between the gas outlet and the hob without killing anyone and without spending £200. Money's tight after a house move and a newborn and it's one of those things that I think I could do with relatively little fuss.

The overwhelming opinion on here seems to be that I should STFU and call in an RGI. It's a perfectly credible argument and one I don't have a problem with. If I were flush it would be somebody else's problem I still think it's a shame that DIY is dying a death - but that's the world we now live in . You've heard it all before no doubt.

I'll ask at the plumbers merchants and take sage advice from the regulars who hang out there drinking coffee of a morning. They'll be happy to check my work when they come in to do more major jobs on the house which are way above my skill level.

Please don't mistake me for somebody who would even contemplate finishing a job without checking connections and leaks etc.
 
Sigh.
I'll do it for £175 !

But it won't cost you that for a hob connection. Surely a man of your means has a suitable contact at his disposal anyway. Get it done properly and then the legal side is bomb proof.
 
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would even contemplate finishing a job without checking connections and leaks etc

And how do you do that?

You shouldn't have any leaks to check.

I think you have already proved yourself not competent for such a job by starting it without preparing fully BEFORE you got underway. The fact that you have a newborn in the house is not frankly going to instill sympathy with a professional - it is more likely going to create a feeling of anger that you have little clue as to what you are doing, have been told so by people who know more about it that you do; but insist on continuing because your too tight to pay someone to do this relatively quick and easily dangerous job. If it cost you a hunderd quid I would be surpised - and I'm net even cheap!

Christ, I wouldn't go round disfusing explosives; but I could get a book off the internet that tells me how to do it - and I would be very surpised if it was that hard to do once one had the equipment.

But I wouldn't. If I had some that needed disposing I would call somone like you.
 
Alright Dan - fair enough. Just to be clear I haven't even started the job yet. I'm just gathering information. The information I've gathered is that you lot think I'm insane for even contemplating this. I might be bloody-minded and tight (at times) but I know when I'm beat and will go find myself an RGI. You can all relax. Our daughter will sleep safe with a CORGI fitted hob downstairs.

Part of me just wants to know HOW do it though. Do you never feel like that? I hate being told I can't do things which seem straightforward. I seem to spend half my life filling in bloody health and safety paperwork and I'm growing to detest it all.

Forgive me for I have sinned.

In parting I'll give you all the answer you all wanted to hear:

"Soapy water"
 
the answer you all wanted to hear:

"Soapy water"

WRONG!

And that is why we were so adamant. Remember the chances of us getting employed by you are slim. We have no vested interest other than giving free impartial advise. We (most of us) love our jobs so much that we spend hours off-duty giving advise to people; and on threads like this we get into cruel to be kind mode for your own safety.

If someone was in the blast radius of an inimate explsion and they just froze, or were being beligerent would you fanny about persuading them, or would you (or someone) grab them and drag them to safety and worry first? Cruel to be kind in action there too.


Seriously, you need to notify the installation, it will take a CORGI less than an hour (usually) and probably cost a tenner in materials. YUou then get an insurance backed guarantee that the work has been done properly.

Don't take it personally... and don't test for gas leaks with soapy water. :rolleyes:
 
What if the guy in the blast radius was just really...inqusitive:)



Dan - you're a good guy and I've enjoyed talking to you all this afternoon.
 
Why don't you chase the cooker hose into the wall behind the cooker ,leave the end sticking out then extend what's there with some speedfit pipe and some gaffa tape . You could use some jointing compound on the threads. Some people use Plumbers Mait but use silicone if you want a good seal. (Joking)

Seriously, nearly all inset hobs are supplied by rigid copper unless stated otherwise by the hob maufacturer.
You will also need to tightness test the installation before and after the work.
If you unscrew the bayonet fitting from the wall this will leave you with a 1/2 inch female thread. At the other (hob) end you will have a 1 /2 inch male or female thread .
You will need : either two of the following:

http://www.speedplumb.co.uk/feed-male-iron-adapters-pi-468.html

OR one of the above plus one of the following:

http://www.speedplumb.co.uk/feed-female-iron-adapters-pi-150.html

or elbow versions of the above ,whatever suits your purpose.
You will then need to make up some pipework in copper to connect the two using soldered fittings in whatever configuration works best.
You must also fit an isolating valve suitable for natural gas on the supply to the hob such as :
http://www.speedplumb.co.uk/mini-bore-valve-p-999.html

You must then tightness test and purge the installation before sliding the oven in.,making sure the back of the oven doesn't foul the pipework-hope you checked this before you sweated those joints!
There are also such things as gas rates to check, and ventilation requirements to be met.
Easy job!

The reason the flexible cooker hose is not allowed is because of the risk of its exposure to extremely high temperatures (in a tightly enclosed space behind a hot cooker) If the hose was ruptured as a result causing a gas escape the consequences could be disastrous.
 

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