Cost of re-laying laminate floor

[AnnaD2002]

Hi - I am hoping someone can help. We have just had our kitchen installed with new engineered wood flooring throughout, going through to dining area - about 10m2 in total. The original floor in the kitchen was concrete and in the dining area was parquet wood which was at a slightly higher level. The builder used self-levelling compound just in the kitchen to bring it up to the same level as the parquet and then underlay board on top of that (I think throughout). There is one small area (about 1/2m2) that dips down where the kitchen meets the dining area (not the full width) and it is really bugging me. The floor creaks because of the drop and there is an obvious slope underfoot. I'm not sure if it then levels out after that or whether the rest of the dining room is lower.

We have been back to him and he is adamant that he didn't do the levelling compound throughout because we wanted to keep costs down (hmm - not sure about that, I am happy to pay to ensure something is actually right ). We haven't paid him the full balance and I am inclined to take money off to put this right. My question is - would this be incredibly disruptive and how much would it cost? We are in London.

 

[AnnaD2002]

P.S - forgot to say. It's that click system/glue free flooring.

 

[dann09]

The costs issue is a red herring.

He was hired and paid to do a job - he didn't do the job.

He wasn't hired to do a job except where SLC would cost more.

Laminate flooring of any kind must be laid on a level and even surface - professionals who undertake flooring work know this.

Try and get him back, and come on here with any suggestions that he might propose.

 

[AnnaD2002]

He's not coming back. I haven't paid him yet, the only option is for me to take money off the final bill.

 

[big-all]

you cant actually take money off the final bill

you can off course withhold part off the payment say 10% or whatever the contract provides or a reasonable amount till the work is off a good standard you are happy with

is there an expansion gap all the way round
and are you sure its not a bump you are flattening when you walk on it rather than a hollow

if you place a long strait edge on the area does it look like a hollow or a bump ??

 

[AnnaD2002]

I know exactly what the problem is - its because the floor is lower in one part than the other. Yes there is a small expansion gap round the edges and this is hidden by scotia. Photo of slope attached. It doesn't seem to be a problem the whole width of the kitchen/dining room divide.

The bottom line is our builder is not coming back, end of story. And nor do I want him back in my house. I just want to know what is a reasonable adjustment and if I can't take money off then what am I going to have to fork out to be happy with my kitchen floor? Is it massively disruptive to pull say 5m2 of laminate flooring up, making the floor underneath level and then reinstalling?

 

[AnnaD2002]

Image attached this time I think!

 

[AnnaD2002]

Untitled

• AnnaD2002
• 11 Jun 2013
• 1

 

[crazydaze]

If the floor slopes, this is not necessarily a problem, if an area of the installation is 'out' compared to the rest of the floor and causing what you describe earlier, then like you say, the floor has not been levelled correctly. The parquet area cannot be screeded over, you can only screed up to it and try and level the transition smoothly.

Ideally you need a 2 or 3m straight edge to really see where the floor slopes or has undulations etc.

To level the whole area would require the parquet uplifting, then this area screeding and a final screed over the whole area, expensive, and not necessarily required, it really depends on exactly what the subfloor condition is.

Do you have any of the original flooring left?

I would assume that a fitter is probably going to charge a minimum fitting charge plus whatever screed materials and time are required. Assuming the flor has just been badly screeded, I would be thinking £250 to do the work. If there are underlying issues with the parquet area that can't be resolved with screeding the concrete area to a better standard, i.e. the parquet actually dips etc too then you'll need a quotation.

You really will need some original planks as there is likely to be some damage during the uplift.

 

[AnnaD2002]

Crazydaze, thanks that's really useful to know. I am 99% sure the parquet doesn't dip (in fact it is in pretty good nick it's just we didn't have it in the kitchen area and wanted one covering throughout). Will get some quotes anyway.

 

[AnnaD2002]

Scrap all that. A pipe has burst under the sink (builder's fault) flooding the entire room, floor ruined so it will have to be re layed anyway. The builder (with help of husband) has now mopped up all the water and his insurers will be in tomorrow supposedly to assess the damage before he starts putting it right. God knows how long we will be without a kitchen anyone know what we should do in this situation? Our contract doesn't have any provisions for disruption but we do still owe him £ks. So upset.

 

[crazydaze]

That sucks

I think under the circumstances, it would be best to come to an agreement regarding this with the builder, the work was'nt completed as per the contract (hence the damage).

Best bet is to pop to Citizens Advice for some free legal advice.

 

[dann09]

On monday the builder is not coming back, and tonight he's on site mopping up?
And in the near future he will "start putting it right"?

The flooring may not be ruined - possibly best to lift it and dry it, while examining the sub-floor and SLC.
Why shouldn't you continue to use your kitchen?

Some advise against wood flooring in kitchens and bathrooms precisely because of the possibilities of leaks or "flooding".

 

[AnnaD2002]

Saga continues, slightly, he pulled up the ruined laminate.
Pulled up the parquet and applied SLC throughout. Let it dry. Then he laid the foam mats and laminate on top. Also left expansion gaps around. But there is major major movement - bouncy - in the floor under the plinth - the one under the cooker in the picture. The extent of the floor goes to just under the plinth, about 3 inches and nothing beyond that nothing until the wall. So it is a floating floor but given that the floor underneath is level, WHY is it moving? Could it be glued down just at this end? It is a bit bouncy in other areas too. I am going to ask him but I would rather be armed with a bit more knowledge. Also should the floor be making a creaking noise all over??

Untitled

• AnnaD2002
• 25 Jun 2013
• 1

 

[big-all]

are you sure the gaps are fully empty and under the door frames and around any pipes

you cannot glue them at the end as this will prevent it expanding and contracting