Work it out. How thick can the SLC you chose be laid? Subtract that thickness from the thickness of the parquet (once you've lifted a piece) and that will give you the minimum thickness of plywood you need.
Plywood just gets screwed down - timber sub-floor direct, concrete sub-floor 7mm holes, brown plugs and 5mm screws. Same as many other fixing jobs
Work it out. How thick can the SLC you chose be laid? Subtract that thickness from the thickness of the parquet (once you've lifted a piece) and that will give you the minimum thickness of plywood you need.
Plywood just gets screwed down - timber sub-floor direct, concrete sub-floor 7mm holes, brown plugs and 5mm screws. Same as many other fixing jobs
I think I'd leave that to the flooring guys to answer, but personally I've never had a lot of joy with really thin (sub-50mm) screed layers. They always seem prone to cracking
I think I'd leave that to the flooring guys to answer, but personally I've never had a lot of joy with really thin (sub-50mm) screed layers. They always seem prone to cracking
Fair comment to make, I have read that perhaps adding a SBR slurry mix to the bitumen, then screeding in sand/cement can solve that issue. I was thinking of bringing the level up quite a bit by using this, then just self leveller above.
Yeah one of the options if ply, then self leveller. But if it's going up 50mm for instance, using 18mm ply still leaves 32mm of self leveller, which is very expensive on a 3m x 3m floor.
It is broke though It's the wrong height, I cant lay tile or LVT over it. Also the floor on the dining room extension and kitchen is different. Plus the floor has been damaged in several places.
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